Potato Latkes

Potato latkes are among the most common Chanukah foods. They are as simple as they are delicious. Consisting of just a few ingredients and utilizing an easy cooking technique, these are certainly suitable for beginners. More experienced cooks may want to introduce other variations on the shredded potato, such as zucchini, eggplant, and even carrots.

Potato Latkes
Serves 10
Prep Time: 10 min.
Cook Time: 10 min. per batch

• 6 large russet baking potatoes (you can swap out a couple of potatoes for a couple of zucchini, etc...)
  
• 2 large onions
• 1 cup matzah meal
• 4 eggs
• salt and pepper to taste
• sufficient vegetable oil to coat the bottom of a large frying pan
  

Grate the potatoes and onions into a large bowl. Squeeze through a paper towel or kitchen towel until most of the liquid has drained off. Do this quickly. The potato will discolor rapidly. Mix in with the eggs, matzah meal, and flour. Allow to rest for 10 minutes in the fridge.

Meanwhile, heat a frying pan over medium high heat and add sufficient oil to coat the bottom of the pan. No more than 1/4 inch of oil, otherwise it will be more of a deep fry than a pan fry. Drop roughly 1/4-1/3 cup of mixture into frying pan, testing with a small batch first to make sure the oil is hot enough. If it sizzles, it's hot enough.


Fry on both sides until golden brown, 3-5 minutes per side. Drain on a rack over paper towels and serve immediately, or keep in a warm oven. They go well with applesauce and sour cream. Happy Chanukah!

Twice Baked Potatoes

Twice Baked Potatoes
Serves 8-12
Prep Time: 10 min.
Cook Time: 2 hrs

• 4-6 Idaho Russet baking potatoes
• 8 oz grated sharp cheddar cheese
• 6 oz (6 strips) thick cut bacon, cooked and chopped
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 2 tbsp sliced scallions
• 1/2 stick unsalted butter
• salt and pepper to taste

Bake the potatoes "naked," (without foil or seasonings) on the middle rack of a 375 degree oven for 1 1/2 hours. Cut the potatoes in half while still hot, scooping the warm, soft potato into a bowl. Leave enough potato in the skins to create a "shell" to receive the filling. 
Mash the potatoes with the other ingredients until combined and the cheese has started to melt. An electric mixer makes for a nice, smooth filling. Spoon the potato filling into the potato shells.
Bake again at 425 degrees until browned on top, about 10-15 minutes. Serve immediately.  

Standing Rib Roast with Herb Horseradish Crust

Standing Rib Roast with Herb Horseradish Crust

Serves 8

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 3 hours

• 1 6-8 lb standing rib roast, bone in
• 1/4 cup prepared horseradish
• 2 tbsp dijon mustard
• 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme
• 2 tsp chopped flat leaf parsley
• 1 tsp lemon zest
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, finely minced
• salt & pepper to taste

Mash all the seasonings and oil into a fine, even paste. Smear all over the roast. Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the roast in a roasting pan in the center rack of the oven. Roast for roughly 2 hours, depending on weight. For the last 30 minutes of roasting, increase the oven temperature to 425 degrees. When the internal temperature reads 130 degrees (for rare), remove from the oven and allow to rest for 30 minutes before carving.

Pan Jus

Heat roasting pan over 2 burners on the stove top, spooning off the fat. De-glaze with 1/2 cup of red wine and 2 cups of beef stock. Reduce by half and serve hot. Season with salt and pepper to taste. For a very fine sauce, strain the jus before serving.

Spicy Salmon Tartare

A few weeks ago, I made a second effort at sushi.The rice turned out just fine -- not perfect, but pretty good. I need a larger rice cooker. Instead of searching all over creation for good sashimi quality fish, I trekked out to a large Asian market in Fairfax county. There, I was able to purchase what turned out to be more fish than I could possibly use, freshly packed just days before in Japan. I found some other condiments for sushi, as well, and was pleased with the price overall. I highly recommend Super H Mart.

The leftover salmon would only stay delicious for 24 hours, max... and I decided to do something tartare. It would be a sin to cook such perfect fish. I made a few small batches and one large batch of what turned out best. Here's the resulting recipe.

Spicy Salmon Tartare

Serves 2

Prep time: 10 minutes

Cook time: None

• 8-10 oz fresh sashimi quality salmon filet
• 2 chopped scallions, white and green
• 1 tbsp siracha chili sauce
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 1/2 tsp prepared wasabi
• 1 tsp rice vinegar

Very finely chop the salmon with a sharp knife. I recommend starting with a small dice and running your knife through the resulting cubes at least 4 or 5 more times in both directions. Use a flexible chopping board that you can rotate easily. Gently toss the salmon with the other ingredients until evenly distributed and chill for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Serve with toast points or plain Japanese crackers. 

I haven't disappeared!

I am in San Francisco for a conference. Lots of delicious food in this city. I have some recipes coming soon, but I am back and forth with the wireless access, so please be forgiving. Someone please e-mail me a food question to give me instant fodder for a new line of posts!

The Day After Thanksgiving

Full of leftovers and really looking forward to putting up holiday appetizer ideas, some main courses including a fabulous standing rib roast, and anything but Thanksgiving!

And so it begins...

Guests have begun to arrive, and the appetizers are delicious. They brought sausage balls, parmesan breadsticks, mini frittatas, stuffed mushrooms, etc... I am starting to get nervous we won't be hungry when it comes time to eat!

The turkey has the house really smelling like Thanksgiving. The dogs are barking and the toddler is giggling. It's excellent background noise.

Giving Thanks, and Turkey Day Progress Report

I have done a pretty decent job of sticking to my game plan. I had to abort mission on the pecan pies. Besides the inexplicable absence of demand for them,  the ingredients at Harris Teeter were cost prohibitive. It was hard to justify spending $25.00 just on the ingredients. Anyway, I made pumpkin pies that seem to have come out quite nicely. I look forward to tasting later this evening.

I forgot to include the rosemary in my stuffing. It's still delicious, but does lack that flavor note that I really enjoy. The corn chowder has been frozen for a few days. It's nice to have such an important element of the meal waiting on me and not the other way around. Everything is assembled except the macaroni and cheese and the mashed potatoes. I have had horrible experience making both of these ahead of time, so I am a stickler for preparing anything that could "break," such as starch-fat combinations, just before serving.

I am confident that everything will come together pretty well tomorrow. The oven has been heating evenly and no disasters have yet presented themselves, except an abrasion to the drumstick of my turkey. I considered notifying Harris Teeter of the inferior product, but decided that the free frozen turkey to which I would be entitled would be useless the day before it's to be roasted.


This is not a political, spiritual, or philosophical blog. I want briefly, however, to share some thoughts on the holiday we're about to celebrate. As an individual, I have a lot to be thankful for. I have a job that I love, a loving partner, healthy dogs, and a father and a sister who have always been there for me. I grew up with the most gracious and precious mother a son could ever want. I am more fortunate than many. The recession has not prevented me from enjoying good food, a comfortable home, or other creature comforts that we sometimes take for granted. I live in a nation that is founded on freedom and is defended by the most valiant heroes the world has ever known. As we fight two wars abroad and confront unprecedented challenges here at home, I am thankful for the sacrifice of the men and women who I may never meet, but make this holiday possible. I am grateful for our beautiful cities, verdant countrysides and farmlands, and breathtaking mountains and oceans. 


In the words of the Jewish religious tradition, "Good and Happy is our Portion. Pleasant is our Lot." Thanksgiving really is a time to reflect on that sentiment, and I hope many of you will.

Quote of the Day

Julia Child, while making mashed potatoes...

"If you're afraid of butter, which many people are nowadays... (10 second pause) ... you can just use cream."

Cranberry Sauce

When I was a child, I remember wondering what a can-shaped sweet and tart confection had to do with cranberries. I didn't hate the canned cranberry sauce, but it never made much sense to me. It reminded me of the Saturday Night Live line from "Coffee Talk" with Mike Meyers, "Cranberry sauce -- neither cranberry nor sauce, discuss." 

Indeed. The first time I ever made cranberry sauce was in college, when I was participating in a potluck. All the "good sides," such as mashed potatoes and mac 'n cheese, were taken. I was stuck making something I don't remember liking very much. I looked in some southern cookbooks and found what I thought would be good. 5 full pounds of cranberries, hours of simmering, a pound of sugar, nearly a cup of liquor... the list goes on. It wasn't horrible, but it was a cumbersome quantity for a humble college party and wasn't fun to make. I don't really like Cointreau that much, so I was stuck with half a bottle of liquor that someone in my fraternity undoubtedly drank at some point later.

Here's the product of a couple of years experience...

Cranberry Sauce
Serves 8
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes

• 2 lbs fresh cranberries, washed
• 1/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
• 1 cup water
• 1 tsp orange zest
• 1/2 tsp lemon zest
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp nutmeg
• 6 whole cloves, studded in 1/2 of the juiced orange

Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a high simmer. Lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes until all spices and sugar are dissolved and the cranberries are softened. Allow to cool to room temperature before serving for maximum flavor and texture.

Thank you!

I just wanted to post a quick note thanking you all for reading. I've recently started to count visitors and receive some data as to my readers, and it's amazing to see that we're now an international presence! You are friends of mine from coast to coast, New England to Miami. I hope you'll keep reading and look forward this weekend to some great ideas for cooking for a crowd. I'm also planning to post some alternative Thanksgiving ideas in the event that you're part of a pot luck or cooking for only 2 or 3 people. Any suggestions for posts would be helpful, I'm always looking for ideas!

Thoughts on Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is my favorite food holiday. I love the memories of Thanksgiving growing up in South Carolina and have enjoyed creating new traditions as an adult. This year will by my first hosting a proper Thanksgiving meal for family and friends. I had a dry run a few years ago, and have made elements of the meal for various pot lucks and pre-Thanksgiving celebrations. All of these have been fun, and relatively simple. With limited oven and stove space, I confess that I am a little intimidated by the prospect of the whole meal happening in my kitchen. I have outlined my menu in a previous post and a few recipes. I hope you'll try some.

The key, for me, to making big meals for large groups of people is cooking as much as possible ahead of time. Cost restraints are sometimes as important as the time crunch, so I also make sure that I follow sales circulars closely, use coupons, and alter the menu based on what's available. I recently saw a Thanksgiving special on the Food Network that featured a turkey covered entirely with white truffle butter. It's a cute idea, but I think I'll stick with Land O'Lakes until I have my own retreat in the Hamptons, complete with barn and cooking show. I am especially proud that I found a sale at Harris Teeter that allowed me to purchase this year's bird for $0.47/lb. I confess that it's not free range, and it probably won't ever meet a truffle, but my guests will love it, nonetheless. 


It occurs to me that some of my readers may be interested in knowing what works well made ahead and what really must be made the day of. Here is my game plan:


2 DAYS AHEAD

• make corn chowder & freeze it
• cub and toast bread for stuffing
• make the brine and soak the turkey
• make the cranberry sauce

1 DAY AHEAD

• make the pies
• chop all the vegetables
• assemble the stuffing, ready to go in the oven tomorrow
• assemble the casserole
  

TURKEY DAY

• roast the turkey
• make the mac & cheese
• make the mashed potatoes & gravy
• bake the stuffing
• roast the broccoli
• bake the casserole
• whip the cream 

Enjoy the meal. That's the most important step of all. 

Hot Italian Sausage Stuffing

I have been making this stuffing since I was in college, with a few years interrupted with strict kosher concerns... But that's all behind me now and I can proudly present a tried and true recipe for this easy and delicious Thanksgiving tradition.

Hot Italian Sausage Stuffing
Serves 8
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 2 hours

• 3 lbs bulk hot Italian sausage / equivalent weight in links with casings removed
• 2 large loaves French or Italian bread, cubed and lightly toasted
• 3 large carrots, diced
• 2 large onions, diced
• 3 stalks celery, diced
• 6 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp chopped fresh sage
• 1/2 tsp finely chopped rosemary
• 4-6 cups chicken stock, warmed
• 1/2 stick unsalted butter
• 2 tbsp olive oil
  
• salt and pepper to taste

In the oil and half of the butter, brown the sausage. Sautee herbs and vegetables with the sausage and rendered fat. Season to taste. Add the bread and coat with the rendered fat. Carefully add the chicken stock, a few cups at a time, until the bread is saturated, but not terribly soggy. Melt in the remaining butter. Blend the mixture until all ingredients are distributed evenly. Bake at 350 degrees until brown and crisp on top and heated through.

Corn Chowder

This is a great starter for any late summer or fall supper. You can use fresh or frozen corn, although I will admit that fresh is better. The frozen is a tad easier, so you'll have to decide what's more important. I must say that if you're buying corn out of season, the frozen is the only way to go. There's nothing worse than cardboard-flavored out of season vegetables. Except maybe an overcooked steak.

Corn Chowder

Serves 8

Prep Time: 10-20 minutes

Cook Time: 1 hour

• 2 lbs cut corn kernels
• 1 large onion, finely diced
• 4 cloves garlic
• 6 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1/2 stick unsalted butter
• 1 cup white wine
• 4 cups chicken stock (vegetable stock is fine and will make it vegetarian)
  
• 4 cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 tsp salt, 2 tsp ground black pepper, 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
  

Sautee the onion and garlic in the butter until softened, but not browned. Add the white wine, corn, and potatoes. Bring to a simmer and add the stock. Simmer until potatoes are fork tender. Puree to desired consistency. I prefer a smoother chowder, others like it more thick and chunky.  I use a stick blender to puree, but you can do it in batches in a blender or food processor. Bring back to a simmer and add the milk. Simmer for 30 minutes or so. Serve in bowls or mugs and finish with the heavy cream.

Review: Strings Restaurant Denver

Strings Restaurant

www.stringsrestaurant.com

1700 Humboldt St

Denver, CO 80218-1109

(303) 831-7310

Never have I enjoyed dining while on official travel as much as I did at Strings Restaurant in Denver, Colorado. I always enjoy my time in Colorado, and have spent a week in Denver and Boulder last year and this year respectively. I have eaten at numerous restaurants and cafes and enjoyed more than a few cocktails and some excellent bars. I love the mountains and climate. In short, I am inclined to be satisfied.

Yesterday, I arrived at Strings in Denver at exactly 12:00 noon. A courteous hostess greeted me with a smile and some curiosity, considering I was holding an obnoxiously orange carry-on sized suitcase. I explained myself and was welcomed to a place at the bar, where I set up my computer and ordered lunch.

I started with a diet Coke and beef carpaccio. It was rolled by hand at the table (bar) with capers, red onions, grated parmesan cheese, and a lemon aioli. I don't actually like aioli, but this one was pretty delicious. She sliced it almost like a sushi-maki. It was served with white toast points. I loved every bite.

For the main course, I enjoyed a half portion of "Mac 'N Chesse." It was caviatappi, perfectly cooked, with a white cheddar sauce, hearty chunks of smoked chicken breast, leeks, and toasted marcona almonds. It was transcendent. I must confess that it is not my personal point of view with regard to what "Mac 'N Cheese" could or should be... it was a delicious pasta dish. I will make this at home at some point this winter.

It is hard to believe that I actually stayed for dinner, but I did. I tasted the best shrimp cocktail I have ever enjoyed. Lemony, plump shrimp with zesty sauces reminded me of what fine foods should be. Flavor is always the most important thing, and Strings did not fail to deliver.

My main course was grilled wild salmon with a green salad dressed with a citrus vinaigrette. Such a simple dish could have easily been boring. This was anything but. A perfectly medium salmon just barely wilted the greens. I ate every bite. It was almost embarrassing to refuse to allow the server to take my plate when I took a brief break in eating to answer an e-mail.

My advice is that if anyone visits Denver, for work or pleasure, I would consider it a personal favor if you would have a meal at Strings Restaurant. Not only is the owner a new friend, but everything on the menu is delicious, fresh, sustainable, and... dare I say... close to perfect.

Review: Tono Sushi Happy Hour

Tono Sushi

www.tonosushi.com

2605 Connecticut Ave NW

Washington, DC 20008-1522

(202) 332-7300

This is a short one. We ordered almost all the nigiri at $1.00 / piece and a few slightly discounted rolls. Nothing was great, nothing was horrible. Worth a trip on a good night, but don't expect much. I have to say, Happy Hour is the only thing that has me going back to Tono. Every time I return, I wonder to myself... why?

Almost Instant Mushroom & Leek Miso Soup

I plan on making sushi this weekend. It's going to be a bit unpleasant, weatherwise, so I have decided to challenge myself again in the art of nigiri and maki sushi. I have had limited success before, but success nonetheless. Since it will be quite cold, I wanted to add something warm and comforting to start.

Mushroom & Leek Miso Soup
Serves 6
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes

• 8 oz shitake mushroom caps, sliced
• 1/2 cup light miso paste
• 1 cup sliced leeks
• 2 cups vegetable stock
• 4 cups water
• 1/2 tsp light vegetable oil
• thinly sliced scallions and finely diced tofu, for garnish

Sautee leeks and mushrooms in the vegetable oil. When softened, deglaze with the stock. Melt in the miso paste until dissolved. Add the water and bring to a light boil. Serve hot with a few tbsp of tofu and a sprinkle of scallions.

Our Thanksgiving Menu

For those of you looking for inspiration on Thanksgiving, here is our menu...

• Corn Chowder
• Roast Turkey
• Hot Italian Sausage Stuffing
• Macaroni and Cheese
• Green Bean Casserole
• Garlic Mashed Potatoes with Turkey Gravy
• Roasted Broccoli and Onions
• Homemade Cranberry Sauce
• Pumpkin & Pecan Pies with Cinnamon Whipped Cream
• Jameson's Irish Coffee

I will post some of these recipes (all original, no copies from major food magazines, cookbooks, or television shows) if there is demand. I have written some out, some I haven't. Please keep me in the loop on what you guys are up to, as well. I would love some original ideas for holiday meals, as well!

Holiday Roast Turkey

I have tried this recipe with a brined and non-brined turkey. I have to admit, it's better with a brined turkey. I simply dissolve a cup of sugar, a cup of salt, a handful of peppercorns in 2 gallons of hot water. I add one onion, quartered, and one head of garlic, halved. I let it cool and pour over a thawed turkey in a huge pot. I store in the refrigerator for 2 days, pat dry, and proceed with the following recipe. If you can't brine the turkey because of time or space considerations, it will still come out perfectly delicious. I don't pretend this recipe to be the simplest I have ever posted,  but it really is the best turkey I have ever had.

Holiday Roast Turkey

Serves 10

Prep Time: 1 hour

Cook Time: 3 hours

• 1 10-14 lb turkey 
• 1 stick softened unsalted butter (leave it out overnight)
• 2 tbsp fresh chopped parsley
• 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme
• 2 tsp finely mince fresh sage
• 2 tsp garlic powder
• 1 tbsp kosher salt
• 2 tsp finely ground black pepper
• 4 stalks celery
• 4 carrots
• 2 onions, quartered
• 2 lemons, quartered
• 1 head garlic, halved

Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Blend herbs, seasonings, and salt and pepper with the softened butter.


Season the inside of the bird with salt and pepper and stuff with celery, carrots, onions, garlic, and lemons.
Rub the butter mixture all over the bird, both on top of and under the skin. Place in a roasting pan. Cover the breast with a foil tent. Roast for 2 -3 hours, depending on the weight of the turkey.
Turn up the heat to 425 degrees and remove the foil tent. Roast for 30-45 minutes more, or until a meat thermometer registers 180 degrees at the deepest part of the thigh and the skin is evenly browned. Allow to rest for 20 minutes before carving.

Coming Tomorrow

Thanksgiving menu with my favorite roasted turkey recipe, 2 new restaurant reviews, and the fastest mushroom miso soup.

Roasted Tomato Salad

Serves 6
Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 90 minutes

• 2 heads cleaned, roughly chopped Romaine lettuce
• 6 Roma tomatoes, halved and seeded
• 1/2 medium red onion, very thinly sliced
• 1 1/2 cups cooked, cooled cannellini beans, or canned, drained cannellini beans
  
• 3 oz. shaved parmesan cheese
• 3 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, finely minced
• salt and pepper to taste
  

Pre-heat the oven to 425 degrees. Place the tomatoes cut side up on a baking sheet. Season with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Sprinkle a little bit of garlic in the cavity of each tomato. The moisture will keep the garlic from burning. Roast for an hour and a half, until carmelized.

Allow to cool. Meanwhile, assemble the rest of the salad.

In a large bowl, toss the Romaine with the beans and onion. Just before serving, dress with the lemon juice and olive oil. Top with the roasted tomatoes and shaved parmesan.

The Easiest Vegetable Soup

Vegetable Soup
Serves 6-10, depending on what course

• 4 quarts vegetable stock
• 2 cups diced carrots
• 1 cups diced onions
• 1 cup diced celery
• 1 cup diced canned tomatoes
• 2 cups cooked tiny pasta, such as alphabet or orzo
• 1 bouquet garni (bundle of aromatic herbs, including parsley, thyme, marjoram, etc…)
• olive oil
• salt and pepper to taste

Sautee the vegetables in olive oil until softened. Add the stock and allow to come to a simmer. Simmer for 1 hour. Add pasta. Taste for seasonings. Adjust with salt and pepper and simmer for 10 minutes, taking care not to over-cook the pasta.

Happy Halloween!

I must admit that while I find Halloween fun, it's not my favorite holiday. As a "treat," however, I'll post my recipe for my Wednesday night menu from this week.

Pork Milanese with Sauteed Spinach and Angel Hair

For the Pork

Six 6-8 oz boneless trimmed pork loin chops, pounded very thinly
Italian spice rub (recipe follows)
2 extra large eggs beaten with 2 tbsp water
2 cups all purpose flour
2 cups seasoned dried bread crumbs (I recommend Progresso, or make your own)
1 cup light olive or vegetable oil
2 tbsp unsalted butter

Season the pork chops with the Italian spice rub (2 parts salt to 1 part dried oregano, 1 part dried basil, 1 part ground black pepper, 1 part garlic powder) 2 hours before you plan to cook them. Coat on both sides in flour, egg, then breadcrumbs. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a shallow frying pan and melt in the butter over medium high heat. Fry the pork chops, drain on a rack, and store in a warm oven while the others cook.

For the Spinach

2 lbs fresh spinach or one large package frozen spinach 
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely minced
salt and pepper to taste

Sautee everything but the spinach in a large skillet until softened and translucent, then add the spinach until wilted. Allow the excess liquid to cook off and serve hot.

Cook the pasta to its desired tenderness and toss with olive oil.

Layer the pasta, spinach, and pork on the plate and enjoy with freshly grated parmesan cheese (I use grana padano) and a bright white wine.  

Review: Ray's the Steaks

Ray's the Steaks
2300 Wilson Boulevard
Arlington, VA
(703) 841-7297

Our party of three arrived 1 minute early for our 8:30 reservation on Friday night. There was a line out the door. A competent but visibly stressed hostess scribbled notes and names on a tattered yellow legal pad as we announced we'd arrived. She indicated we'd be seated soon. Within 10 minutes we were at our table. The restaurant was louder than I expected, but we sat in a smaller table in the back. Most of the noise didn't make it all the way back to us.  

We were greeted at our table with a napkin, a fork, and a knife. A wine glass and water glass awaited our beverage choices. Within seconds, a few chunks of good foccacia bread and spiced cashews came with good, cold water.  The menu was laminated and more extensive than I expected. Several offerings are not for the faint of heart (literally), including a 28-oz cowboy steak and a 32-oz top sirloin. I chose more responsibly. A cajun ribeye. My dining partners chose to enjoy starters of caesar salad and lobster bisque. Both were above average. The bisque was very buttery and generous on the lobster. The caesar dressing was garlicky, not mayonnaise-y and the lettuce was fresh and crisp.

We ordered what I considered the best value on the menu -- a $15.00 bottle of 1997 Tempranillo, a Spanish red with full and interesting flavor. It paired well with the fatty ribeye and the whipped potatoes, which came as a gratis side with creamed spinach. The potatoes were near-perfect, ideal texture and light flavor. The creamed spinach did not impress, but wasn't bad, either.

The stars of the show was really were the main courses. My steak was beautifully charred, generous in portion, and cooked perfectly. A medium rare steak is one of my favorite things, so to impress me with one is an accomplishment. The service was incredibly fast, almost as though we'd called ahead with our orders. My dining partners had blacked sea scallops with sauteed garlic (which also topped my steak) and a hangar steak. The aforementioned sides matched up pretty well. The garlic on my steak was soft and i spread it into my steak like spread. It was an excellent addition.

The seared scallops were unexpectedly spicy and certainly delicious. The hanger steak was, as described on the menu, not the most tender cut available, but stiff competition for my ribeye. Overall, I was pleased with our selections and eager to come back and try some of the other amazing cuts on their menu.

We ordered dessert. I ordered the New York cheesecake, which was good to very good... not too sweet. We also shared the dark chocolate mousse, whose flavors were classic but the texture was closer to that of cold cake frosting than whipped mousse. No one complained about that, though.

The food is truly 100% of the Ray's the Steaks experience. Do not expect frills, garnish, or even particularly warm staff. No one is rude, but their philosophy, as printed on their menu, is to serve as many tables as possible the most excellent meat at the lowest prices. Mission accomplished. We were in and out in an hour in and ten minutes. It's the best value on a steakhouse I have ever seen in the metro-Washington area, unless you'd like to try Outback. Ranging from $18.00 - $55.00, the entrees aren't going to break the bank... and are worth every cholesterol-laden penny.

Ray's the steaks gets a must try rating from this carnivore. Let me know when you want to visit the Courthouse neighborhood of Arlington so I can try it again!

What a couple of weeks...

I know it has been nearly two weeks since I have updated. My apologies. It's been very busy with work and I have barely had the time to cook, much less write about cooking. But I have some successes and failures from the week that I thought it would be helpful to share. I'm still honing the recipes, so expect some new recipe posts in the next couple of days.

Monday
I invited a close friend over. I hadn't seen her since June, and since she works so close it just made sense that we'd get together after we finished our busy day on Capitol Hill. Quite unexpectedly, I was assigned a task that would have me out until right before I expected her over, but I thought I'd make it just in time. Well, little did I realize that she would be hanging outside of my house for half an hour or more while I rushed home. Adding to the pressure cooker that was my day, a few of my friends happened to be available for dinner, so I said, "the more, the merrier!" What's the point in having 4 lbs of pork tenderloin if there's no one there to eat it, right?

So I planned the menu in my head... coucous is quick (see a few posts ago) and I'd  thawed out the pork. A pan sauce takes 10 minutes, max, with good chicken stock and some minced garlic. Whew! I had a plan. I barreled through the back door of my house (greeting one of my guests as I did so) and discovered that my delightful partner had not taken out the trash, as I assumed he had. My house smelled like two pugs (who desperately needed to go out) and garbage. Lovely for a dinner party.

I immediately clean up the gifts that had been left by my furry children, preheat the oven, and pour myself a heavy glass of chardonnay. It had de-chilled during my friend's long wait, so I, in the classiest fashion, added an ice cube. Into the oven I throw the tenderloin...

Half an hour later, I test it with a meat thermometer. It registered 52 degrees. Thawed on the outside, frozen in the middle. Perfect. I won't bore you with the gory details of how I fixed it, but it all worked out. Within 45 minutes of walking through the door, I served dinner. Here are my friends at the end, it really was a proud moment for me, especially considering that my friend Alex declared me to be in "American Psycho" mode before I was able to get into the cooking groove.

Wednesday
I had a better game plan for Wednesday.  Pork Milanese with sauteed spinach and angel hair pasta. Recipe to follow next week, I promise. Maybe this weekend, if I get some time.

Thursday
My other extra-curricular hobby is being an unabashed Francophile. My friend Paul shares my foodie-Francophile habits so we've been planning to cook together for a few weeks and finally hammered down a time and menu. I provided meat and friends and he brought veggies and wine. Unexpected success. The steaks were prepared on the stovetop grill with an Italian-inspired homemade rub and the sides Paul cooked up were a perfect pairing. Mashed sweet potatoes and carmelized endives. Recipes with due credit to guest foodie Paul will be forthcoming, as well.

Sorry for the quick and dirty update, but I didn't want anyone to think I'd let AIGT (sounds like "ate," right) slip through the cracks another week.

Honestly...

Tonight we just ordered a pizza and played board games. It's been rainy and cold outside and I couldn't be bothered to run out and gather the necessary components of anything delicious. To make up for it, I'm posting a really popular recipe that I've made for my friends since college. Have a great weekend! I'll be posting something. I just haven't decided what yet. Any suggestions?




Turkey Meatloaf
Serves 4-6

4 lbs. ground turkey (93% lean)
½ cup seasoned breadcrumbs
2 large eggs
1 tbsp tomato ketchup plus a ¼ cup for basting
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 tbsp parmesan cheese
¼ cup chopped parsley
½ cup sautéed onions or shallots
1 tbsp finely minced softened garlic
1 tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Pre-heat oven to 375 F. Mix all ingredients except the turkey in a large mixing bowl until combined. Fold into the turkey until well-combined, not over-mixing. Bake in a loaf pan at 375 F, until cooked through, roughly 45 minutes to an hour. Baste the top of the meatloaf with tomato ketchup. An instant-read thermometer should register 180 F. Allow to rest 15-20 minutes before slicing.

It's Wednesday

And that almost always means that I'm making dinner for some friends. I decided on a whim last night that I'd create something Italian. Really, I'm re-creating something Italian. I've made it a few times before. It's a hybrid interpretation of two delicious pasta dishes I've eaten at Filomena's and Cafe Milano,  two of the finest Italian restaurants in Washington, DC. Both are located in the beautiful neighborhood of Georgetown.

Spaghetti with Italian Sausage
Serves 4
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours

1 lb hot Italian sausage
1 lb sweet Italian or Sicilian sausage
2 medium onions, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4 large Roma tomatoes, diced
2 cups Chianti wine
1 cup chicken stock
3 cups marinara sauce
1 tsp dried Italian seasoning blend
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
salt, to taste
1 tbsp olive oil

• Slice the sausage into bite-sized pieces
• In a large, high-sided skillet, sautee over medium high heat in the olive oil until browned on all sides, about 7 minutes.
• Add the onions, garlic, and tomatoes. Season with salt, pepper, and Italian seasoning.
  
• Sautee until softened and just slightly browned, about 20 minutes. Some sticking to the bottom of the pan may occur.
• Add two cups of Chianti. Reduce until thick, about 10 minutes.
• Add 1 cup of chicken stock. Reduce again, about 10 minutes.
• Finally, add the marinara sauce. Cover. Simmer over medium low heat for at least an hour.
• Serve over al dente spaghetti.
  

Something Quick for a Weeknight

My best friend in the entire world, who just recently announced her pregnancy, calls me at least once a week to ask for a quick meal idea to prepare for herself and her husband. It's always a flattering surprise, as she is quite an accomplished foodie herself. She and I first started cooking together our senior year of college, often over multiple bottles of cheap wine and with more than a few burned desserts. She abandoned me for Manhattan, where she really developed a palate for international cuisine, and an appreciation for quick, but delicious cuisine.

Here's a menu I suggested a couple of weeks ago. It may have been longer than that, before it started to chill down for the season, but I wanted to share. 

Flavor

A few of my friends have thrown out ideas about what I should write about here. I have been playing with our Thanksgiving menu (it's coming up, people!) and my friend Alex commented, "That all sounds like it tastes so good!" I replied that I find that people who think they can't cook often find their food lacks pizazz because it's under-seasoned. It's not as simple as too little salt and pepper. Under-seasoning is an under-appreciation for the power of simple elements of flavor to come together to do something amazing to the base ingredient.

More after the jump...

Sliced Steak au Poivre with Balsamic and Pomegranate Sauce

Last night we decided to pool together a few bucks in a tight economy and that I would put together whatever I could find on sale at the local Harris Teeter. I'm still honing the recipes, but I want to share the photograph of our creations.

I made New York strip au poivre, but in lieu of the traditional butter and cognac, I made a pomegranate and balsamic reduction. I confess I didn't get it perfect, but the flavors were there. The side was really delicious, but less experimental. I tossed buttered orzo with zucchini that had been steamed in chicken stock. I used the stock to deglaze the pan in which I cooked the steaks and then tossed it all with the pasta. I've done the same thing with broccoli and asparagus. I sliced the steak and layered it over crusty, toasted rosemary and olive oil bread that I'd scraped with a garlic clove. I drizzled with the balsamic and pomegranates. The multi-tasking led to a colder steak than I would have preferred, but I didn't want to risk overcooking the meat by holding in a warming oven. It was what it was -- and everyone seemed to enjoy it.

My next post will become a regular Monday feature -- a comprehensive article on a topic that interests me with regard to food. This week I will cover my approach to flavor. How to balance, mask, blend, and augment... Everything I've learned that I can think to put on paper. Stay tuned!

Bar Review - Tabaq on U Street

Tabaq Bistro
1336 U Street NW
Washington, DC 20009-4445

http://www.tabaqdc.com

Last night, for a friend's birthday, I joined a group of people I don't know for cocktails at Tabaq Bistro on U Street. I'm only reviewing the bar / lounge upstairs on the roof. I can't speak to the food, as the kitchen closed within minutes of our arrival. It's all for the best, in the end, as I have been making chicken recipes all weekend and couldn't stomach the idea of more food.

The Americans with Disabilities Act must not cover chic urban rooftops, as it takes no fewer than four flights of stairs to finally reach the upstairs bar. Visually, it's worth the trek. White banners decorate the glass ceiling and views, although somewhat obstructed, of the Capitol Dome and Washington Monument remind you where you're drinking. A respectable drink menu outlines beers (five of which they were out of by 11:00 pm, including all draught beers) from roughly $6.50-$8.50 and martinis for $13.00. I started with a Heineken, and it took a while for our very kind, but overworked server it get it to me. It was cold. Good enough.

I decided to switch from beer to Scotch and enjoyed a neat Johnnie Walker Black Label with a splash of cold water. Again, the server may have flown to Aberdeen to get it. It was perfectly satisfactory when it did finally arrive. Many in our group concluded that service directly from the bar was more efficient, correctly so, and chose to deal directly with the pleasant and competent bartender. The birthday boy had more than a few drinks, and I tried one that looked interesting. It was a melon martini. Basic green liqueur in a chilled cocktail glass with a lonely cherry providing some color contrast. It was terribly sweet and better suited to a sorority party than a bar with printed menus.

Pick the right drinks, however, and the right company, and Tabaq is a real winner. I had a great time despite the imperfect service. The venue is especially attractive and its location on U Street makes it convenient to Dupont and Adams Morgan, if the service becomes too insufferable. I haven't devised a star rating system yet for my reviews so I'll just close by saying Tabaq deserves a try. Just stay away from the "martinis."

By Popular Demand... Macaroni and Cheese

By far, my most requested recipe is macaroni and cheese. I have been making it the same way since I was a kid, developing more sophisticated flavors with higher quality cheeses and tweaking the seasoning as I learned how to balance competing elements. My late mother taught me how to make good mac 'n cheese after I made one too many boxes of shells with that silver cheese sauce packet. I'm glad she did.

I must confess some chagrin when I discovered that a recent episode of Barefoot Contessa - Back to Basics demonstrated an eerily similar version of my favorite comfort food. Ina Garten and I do have a similar point of view about eating and entertaining, but I want to make it clear that she's not the inspiration for what you're about to read.

Most of these ingredients are somewhat flexible, especially the pasta shapes and cheese selections. I always like to pair sharp cheddar and Swiss, but it's really up to you.

A variation that I still insist (tongue in cheek) that my friend Ina in the Hamptons must have "borrowed"  involves sliced, sauteed cremini mushrooms and crumbled slab bacon folded into the pasta and cheese. This makes it a meal in itself. Not diet food, for sure.

There is a breadcrumb, cheese, and butter mixture I've added on top, but after testing it dozens of times, I prefer to omit it. The flavor notes I prefer to highlight in this particular recipe are the bite of the garlic and cayenne and the mellow creaminess of the melted cheese. If you've never made a bechamel sauce before (the white sauce that is the base for the cheese), don't be intimidated. Just have a good whisk and a bit of patience.

Macaroni and Cheese

Serves 6

Prep time: 30 minutes

Cook time: 30 minutes 

1 lb of hollow noodles... I prefer this shape: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellentani

Elbow macaroni works, but doesn't come out quite as good. Penne, Rotini, etc... work fine

3 cups sharp cheddar cheese, grated

2 cups swiss cheese, grated

2-3 cups whole milk or half and half

3 tablespoons flour

3 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon garlic powder (not garlic salt!)

1/2 - 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper,  to taste

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Boil the pasta according to package instructions, minus one minute, drain, do not rinse, set aside.

In a pot large enough for all the pasta and cheese sauce mixture, melt the 3 tablespoons of butter together with the flour. Whisk into a roux. Add 2 cups of the milk, whisking vigorously to avoid lumps. Bring to a simmer, whisking occasionally to remove lumps.

When the sauce begins to thicken add the cheese. Stir constantly to avoid sticking and burning. Stir in the garlic powder, salt, pepper, and cayenne until evenly distributed. Taste for seasonings. If it's too thick, add more milk. If it's too soupy, add more cheese.

When everything is a thick, cheesy mess... add the pasta and fold together, coating the pasta completely.

Pour the mixture into a casserole and bake for 30 minutes, until the top starts to brown.

Coq au vin with potatoes, Roasted Butternut Squash with Turnips

This menu served me well at a dinner party a few weeks ago. It's pictured below in my introduction. I served white and red wine with dinner, but I'd recommend you serve the same wine you used to make the chicken. Traditional French coq au vin is made with the meat of an old rooster, which is unavailable in the mass market. I use dark meat to give a similar  texture to the older bird (more sinews, higher fat content), but any piece of chicken will work. An excellent variation is to remove the potatoes completely and sautee mushrooms with the onions. Feel free to play with the liquid content a bit. My recipe produces a little too much extra sauce to really be useful. In the absence of a Dutch oven, a large stew pot on the stove will produce similar results.

This really is cold weather food. It's heavy, earthy, and really filling. Serve with some crusty bread to soak up extra sauce. I hope you try it and like it.

Coq au vin with potatoes

Serves 6

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 1 - 2 hours

4 chicken thighs

4 chicken drumsticks

1 bottle Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon

3 cups homemade or low sodium canned chicken stock

2 onions, sliced or 2 lbs frozen pearl onions

3 lbs new potatoes

2 tbsp butter

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp chopped rosemary leaves

1 tsp thyme leaves

3 cloves minced garlic

salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In the bottom of a heavy Dutch oven, melt half the butter with half the oil. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Sear the chicken in batches, until browned on both sides, supplementing the oil and butter as necessary.

Sautee the onions and potatoes in the remaining fat, deglazing the pan with the wine and stock. Return the chicken to the pot. Add the herbs and garlic. Cover tightly and allow to cook in the hot oven for 2 hours until chicken is tender.

Roasted Butternut Squash and Turnips

Serves 6

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 30 minutes

1 peeled, diced butternut squash. Use large chunks. (frozen not recommended)

2 large turnip roots, peeled of excess and diced in the same size as the squash

2 cloves minced garlic

2 tbsp olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.  Toss squash and turnips with seasonings, garlic, and oil. Spread on a parchment lined sheet pan in a single layer and roast for 30 minutes until tender, but not mushy. Serve hot.

Alternative technique: Roast for an hour (until mushy) and mash with a cup of sour cream and a few tablespoons of butter. Add cranberries and a dash of nutmeg.

Introduction

After years of cooking for my friends and family, I decided to start writing down some of my more successful and popular creations. The more I cook, the more I come to love and appreciate good food and drink. I am always flattered when someone asks, "Would you send me your mac 'n cheese recipe?" or asks for hints on what to make for dinner that night.

Why not use modern technology to keep a record of thoughts and experiments? I love to eat out, and with my new job I travel quite a bit. I look forward to posting recipes, ideas for wine pairings, and restaurant reviews based on my adventures around Washington and beyond.

Thank you for reading and I hope that in the coming weeks and months, you'll enjoy some of what I have shared.

I've posted a picture of a recent dinner I made for some visiting friends. The recipes will be posted soon. Who wouldn't love a little coq au vin with potatoes and roasted butternut squash and turnips?