Potato and Onion Kugel

One of the side dishes that people request most at the meals I serve around Jewish holidays is my broccoli and leek kugel. I have not posted the recipe here because it's still being refined for publication, but here is a version of the basic potato and onion kugel that I think you'll love.

Potato and Onion Kugel
Serves 6-8
Prep Time: 20 min.
Cook Time: 1 hr. 30 min.

• 2 large russet potatoes, peeled and grated
• 2 large onions, thinly sliced
• 2 tsbp vegetable oil (to saute the onions)
• 4 cups prepared mashed potatoes
• 1 cup flour or matzah meal
• 4 eggs
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1/2 cup water or vegetable stock
• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
• salt and pepper to taste

Whisk together the flour / meal, eggs, oil, and water / stock. Set aside.
Saute the onions in a large pan in a few tbsp of vegetable oil until softened, but not brown.
Toss the onions with the grated potatoes. Fold the onions and potatoes with the flour mixture and the mashed potatoes until smooth and the shredded vegetables are evenly distributed.
Spread mixture in a greased baking dish (9 x 13) and bake at 350 degrees for an hour until golden on top and fluffy.

Homemade Applesauce

Homemade Applesauce
Yield: 4 cups applesauce
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour

• 6 large apples - peeled, cored, and roughly diced
• 2 tbsp - 1/4 cup sugar, depending on your preferred sweetness and the selection of apples
• 1 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/4 cup reserved apple peel or 2 tbsp cranberry juice

Toss the apples with the salt, sugar, apple peel, and cinnamon in a large baking dish. Roast at 350 degrees for an hour, until apples are tender. Mash through a food mill or with a potato masher, allow to cool, and store in the refrigerator or serve warm.

Basic Focaccia Bread - With Variations

I am breaking my long-standing silence because of an especially pleasant culinary victory this week. I apologize to all of my friends for not being attentive to my blog, but I am thrilled to have the time to dedicate again to sharing recipes and thoughts with you all on a regular basis. Thank you for reading.

This is a recipe I adapted from Epicurious, but made my own with a few flavor additions.

Focaccia Bread
Makes 1 large loaf
Prep Time: 2 hours (including rise time)
Cook Time: 25-35 minutes

• 1 package active dry yeast
• 4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup + 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil for topping
• 2 tsp salt + 1 tsp coarse sea salt for topping (optional)
• 1 2/3 cups warm water (100-110 degrees)
• 1 tsp garlic powder
• 1 tsp dried oregano or thyme

Dissolve the yeast in the warm water and allow to become cloudy and bubbly, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, mix the dry ingredients with the paddle attachment in the bowl of a standing electric mixer (or a standard mixing bowl with a whisk).
Add the yeast mixture and oil to the mixer and mix on medium until a sticky dough forms. Switch to the dough hook.
Knead on medium to high (my mixer tended to dance around my counter a bit) for 5 minutes.
Turn out on to a floured surface and knead for another 5 minutes.
Toss the dough in an oiled bowl until coated and allow to rise, covered, for an hour and a half or until doubled in volume. Meanwhile, pre-heat the oven to 425 degrees.
Turn the risen dough out onto a parchment-lined baking sheet and make indentations in the top with your fingers evenly throughout the loaf.
Brush with oil and sprinkle with salt or additional herbs. Bake for 25-35 minutes until golden brown. Allow to rest for 30 minutes before cutting.

Serve with olive oil for dipping.

You can get creative and top the bread with sun-dried tomatoes, olives, feta cheese, or parmesan. Some people find the salt crust a tad overpowering, so do what works for you.

Grilled Individual Meatloaves

After a summer of grilling on the porch, you may be tired of hamburgers. I know I am. Here's a good way to switch up the regular hamburger -- and feed a crowd. The recipe can be doubled, tripled, or multiplied as many times as you need it.

Grilled Individual Meatloaves
Serves 4
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 15 minutes

• 2 lbs ground beef, 80% lean
• 2 tbsp grated onion
• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 1 egg
• 2 tbsp breadcrumbs
• 1 tsp fresh thyme
• 1 tbsp salt
• 2 tsp ground black pepper

Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Form into 4-6 individual meatloaves, no more than 1'' thick.
Pre-heat the grill over high heat for 10 minutes. Brush the grates with vegetable oil.
Grill  the meatloaves over direct heat for 6-8 minutes per side. Allow to rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Mustard Rubbed London Broil

I know I have lots of recipes for grilled meat on the blog, but I have an affinity for cooking outdoors during the summer. I like to think creatively and find ways to bring new flavors to a familiar cut of meat and cooking technique. I wrote this recipe down a few months ago and was able to re-test it a week or so ago to make sure it works as well as I remember. This is an incredibly simple way to bring new life to an inexpensive and ordinary cut of beef.

Mustard Rubbed London Broil
Serves 6
Prep Time: 5 minutes, plus 2 hours to marinate
Cook Time: 15 minutes

• One 5 lb London broil
• 1/2 cup dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, minced finely
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 tbsp salt
• 1 tbsp cracked black epper

Combine the seasonings for the marinade until roughly the consistency of a loose paste. Rub liberally on both sides of the meat and allow to sit in a dish for 2 hours at room temperature to overnight in the refrigerator.
Pre-heat a grill or oven broiler to high for 10 minutes.
Grill or broil for roughly 8 minutes on one side, 7 on the other for medium rare. Make sure the meat isn't too close the broiler in the oven and keep checking the meat to not overcook. Allow to rest for 10 minutes under foil for even cooking. Serve sliced thinly against the grain.

Apologies for the Lull!

I have been fortunate to move on to a new professional venture, but it has interrupted my recipe testing and life in the kitchen. I'll be posting quite a bit in the near future, so stay tuned!

Bruschetta

This is an incredibly simple version of an Italian classic. It has been well-received by numerous crowds and can easily be doubled or tripled. I think I'll make it again this weekend.

Bruschetta
Serves 6-8
Prep Time: 20 minutes, plus time for flavors to combine
Cook Time: 5 minutes, to toast the bread 

• 4 large tomatoes, cored and diced
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
• 1 small shallot, very finely minced (less if onion is offensive)
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus 2 tbsp for brushing the bread
• 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large baguettes, sliced thinly on a bias (diagonal)
• 2 cloves garlic, whole

Once the bread is sliced, drizzle or brush with olive oil on both sides and toast in a 400 degree oven for about 5 minutes, turning halfway through.
Rub each slice of bread with a whole garlic clove, imparting fresh garlic flavor but not overwhelming the bread with chunks of raw garlic.
Combine all the ingredients for the topping in a large, non-reactive bowl. Allow to sit for about 20 minutes before spooning onto the cooled crostini.

Butterflied Chicken aux herbes de Provence

This recipe is inspired by a Julia Child / Jacques Pepin technique. It employs skills that are worth having anyway -- but you really can make this as a simple roasted whole chicken, as well. I think the butterflied (spatchcock) technique helps, though. It's also much quicker than roasting a whole comparably sized chicken. I have an embarrassment of riches in my herb garden so I decided to do a quick harvest and create fresh, homemade herbes de Provence. It's the blend you see here, commonly used in the south of France. You can use jarred, dried herbes de Provence, as well. Halve the quantities recommended, however.

Butterflied Chicken aux herbes de Provence
Serves 4
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 50 minutes

• 1 chicken, backbone and breastbone removed (butterflied)
• 1 tbsp fresh chopped rosemary
• 2 tbsp fresh chopped basil
• 1 tbsp fresh chopped thyme
• 1 tsp fresh chopped lavender
• 1 tbsp fresh chopped oregano
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• salt and pepper, to taste (about 2 tsp salt to 1 tsp pepper)

Pre-heat the broiler to its medium to highest setting. Place the rack at least 6 inches below the broiler element.
Mix the herbs with the garlic and olive oil.
Season the chicken on both sides with salt and pepper.
Slather the bone side of the chicken with half the oil and herb mix.
Broil for 20 minutes.
Remove the chicken, turn to skin side up, and season with the other half of the oil and herb mix. Meanwhile, turn the oven heat to roast at 375 degrees.
Roast for an additional 30 or so minutes, until cooked through, depending on the size of your bird

Recommended - Fante's Kitchen Wares Shop

Philadelphia's historic 9th Street Italian Market is truly one of the city's gems. I'm a sucker for open air markets and authentic specialty stores like Claudio's or DiBruno Brothers. You'll even find my mouth watering at more corporate chains such as Dean and DeLuca and Williams-Sonoma. Nothing compares, however, to Fante's Kitchen Wares Shop at 1009 South 9th Street in Philadelphia. From friendly greetings to fabulous products, I can't wait to return to this wonderful store.
The windows are lined in wonderful Le Creuset and All Clad pots and pans, along with high-end appliances that only someone comfortable in the kitchen would really recognize. I was impressed immediately by the homey atmosphere of the massive store. Well-worn hardwood floors and perfectly dusty shelves made me feel as though I was allowed to touch things, pick them up, and even play a little with some of the more obscure gadgets. Despite the wide array of products (much more expansive than even the most comprehensive Williams-Sonoma), everything was organized in a way that made sense. If I'd been searching for something in particular, I could have instantly found it. Instead, I chose to walk the entire store in a few laps.
I was struck by how, in each room, friendly staff offered assistance but never pressure me to buy anything. Everyone was knowledgeable, particularly a wonderful young associate named Jess at the front of the store. Even as an avid foodie, I found items with which I was previously unfamiliar. It was really quite an experience. For a family-owned shop that's been around more than a hundred years, there's no hint of obsolescence. I can picture the family who runs the place answering customer inquiries one hundred years ago in the same friendly tone that Jess answered my questions.
The best part was yet to be discovered until I sat down to write this post -- they have a wonderfully comprehensive website. They offer their products online to the entire country. From perusing the store for quite a while earlier today, I strongly encourage you to give them a look.
http://www.fantes.com
Fante's
1006 South 9th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19147
215.922.5557
800.44.FANTE
mail@fantes.com
I offer Fante's my highest possible recommendation and look forward to buying cookware from them for decades to come.

Almost Instant White Bean Dip

My e-mail box is full of questions about light, summery dips. People are fortunately stepping away from the same old (but sometimes good) canned salsas, french onion dips, and cheesy mayonnaise of our parents' generation and looking to fresh or healthy ingredients for parties and barbecues. This dip is very similar to hummus, but not quite as thick.

White Bean Dip

• 2 cans cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
• 2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil -- use the good stuff here
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• salt and pepper, to taste

Combine all ingredients except the oil in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Turn on and drizzle in the olive oil until desired consistency.

Date Night - Filet of Beef with Mushroom Sauce

One of the best ways to impress a date is preparing a delicious, simple meal. Whether you're cooking for a man, woman, or even a close friend -- no one turns down good food. The key to a successful date night is making something easy. If you're comfortable with something more elaborate than what I'm offering here, by all means, go for it. This is a menu that's been tried and tested, though, and unless your date is averse to beef, you're bound to please.

The Menu
Pan Roasted Filet of Beef
Mushroom Sauce
Mashed Potatoes - Recipe here.
Served with Malbec, Pinot Noir, or even a deep, rich Bordeaux

The Plan
Day before the date -- buy all the ingredients, slice the mushrooms, and measure out the ingredients
Day of the date -- an hour before your date is to arrive, make the mashed potatoes and place over a double boiler. While those are staying hot, make the steaks and sauce -- here's how to do it:

Filet of Beef with Mushroom Sauce
Serves 2
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes for medium, 14 for medium rare, plus 10 minutes for sauce

• two 6-8 oz beef tenderloin filets, about 2 inches thick
• 8 oz. cremini mushrooms, sliced thinly
• 2 cups beef stock or homemade chicken stock
• 1/2 cup red wine, such as pinot noir
• kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tbsp olive oil, for cooking the steak and mushrooms

Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees. Drizzle the oil in an oven-safe pan and heat until shimmering. Add the mushrooms and toss to coat. Make a circle of mushrooms around the edge of the pan.
Season the steaks liberally with salt and pepper. Place in the hot pan and sear on one side for 2 minutes. Turn and sear for another 2 minutes. Place in the hot oven for another 7 minutes for medium rare, a few minutes longer for more well-done steaks.
Carefully remove the steaks from the oven with an oven mitt and place on a plate. Cover tightly with foil. Place the mushrooms over medium high heat and immediately add the red wine. Reduce for 3 or 4 minutes until syrupy and thick. Add the beef stock and reduce for another 5-7 minutes, until reduced by half. Stir often. Taste for seasonings. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Uncover the steaks. Pour any juice that has accumulated in the plate into the sauce and stir.
On a clean, warm plate, add a serving of mashed potatoes. Neatly place a steak on top of each mound of potatoes and spoon over the mushroom sauce. Serve hot.

Bonus Reader Question - Broken Sauces

Peter from Washington asks...

"I was making a white sauce and left it on the counter for a few minutes and it broke -- the fat separated and was just floating on top. I just threw it away. Can you rescue a broken sauce?"

Yes! You can absolutely save a broken sauce. It's actually incredibly easy. I've watched this happen dozens of times. Too much fat from a meat in a queso sauce, an oil slick on top of mac 'n cheese sauce, or even a gross, buttery alfredo. This is all avoidable. Here's how to do it.

In 1/2 cup cold water, stock, or milk dissolve 2 tablespoons of flour. Whisk vigorously into the hot, broken, sauce. It should tighten up almost instantly over the heat. Cook for a few minutes to get rid of the raw flour taste and you will have a very even, silky sauce to serve over your food.

Reader Question - Light Pasta Dishes

Katie from Richmond asks...

 

"I love pasta dishes for dinner - usually with a marinara or vodka sauce, and a meat - but since it's summer I would like to lighten up my pasta dishes. What ideas do you have? They can be hot or cold recipes."

Katie, you should definitely check out my Mediterranean pasta salad. From there, take a look at the rest of my pasta dishes. There are 9 or so and they're mostly light and summer appropriate. I'd also suggest you look into some Asian cookbooks. I think that soba (Japanese buckwheat) noodles and Thai-style cellophane noodles are great in cold salads with just some thinly julienned vegetables tossed with peanut sauce or a little sesame oil.

For hot dishes, why not make a big batch of pesto sauce? You can keep it well in the fridge or freezer and enjoy the seasonal basil for months to come. Experiment with different pesto sauces, as well. Throw in some sun-dried tomatoes or roasted red peppers. Use walnuts or almonds instead of pine nuts. Add arugula or parsley to the basil, switch up the hard Italian cheeses that you use. It's a fun way to create something new. Don't forget to tell me if something wonderful comes out of your kitchen experiments!

Finally, you can toss boiled pasta with any wilted green for a light summer supper. I recommend kale, broccoli rabe, or even spinach. A squeeze of lemon juice and drizzle of olive oil finishes the dish with brightness and flavor without filling you up with all that sauce.

Basic Vegetable Stir Fry

Everyone likes a good stir fry. It's not necessarily always made with authentic ingredients, but the technique couldn't get any easier. It's the same principle as a saute, which I know you've tried a couple of times if you're still reading after realizing what this blog is all about. This works better in a wok -- but I don't have one at the moment, so I just use a large non-stick skillet. This is a vegetarian recipe, but you can add meat with the same technique. I'll offer some variations at the end.

Basic Stir Fry
Serves 4-6 (can be doubled or tripled as much as necessary)
Prep Time: 30 minutes (it takes a while to chop all the vegetables)
Cook Time: 15 minutes

• 4 carrots, peeled and julienned
• 1 onion, julienned
• 1 lb shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps julienned
• 2 portabello mushrooms, gills and stems removed, caps thinly sliced
• 2 cups snow peas
• 1/2 cup bean sprouts 
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 2 tbsp soy sauce

Prepare all of the vegetables first. Keep in separate plates or bowls. Pre-heat the wok or skillet over high heat and add the oil. Allow to shimmer, then add the carrots. Toss for 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and onion. Toss another 5-8 minutes. Add the snow peas, garlic, pepper flakes, and soy sauce. Cook until heated through and the garlic is evenly distributed through the vegetables. Remove from heat and toss with the bean sprouts.

Variations

• Thinly sliced lean beef, such as sirloin or flank steak marinated in soy sauce and mirin for a few hours, add with the onion / mushrooms
• Slices or cubes of chicken thigh or breast meat that has been similarly marinated, or even fresh without a marinade, add before the carrots
• Peeled and de-veined shrimp, add after the mushrooms and onion and cook just a few minutes, depending on the size of the shrimp
• Thinly sliced lean pork, add before the carrots

A Kitchen Inventory

I am often asked, "What sort of gadgets do you have in your kitchen?" It's embarrassing in a way, because I do have a more equipment-heavy kitchen than many, but I use it all quite frequently. There's not much to introduce here, except that this is all of the stuff I could manage to inventory in my kitchen, save dishes and serving ware -- anything used to make meals. You should not feel compelled to purchase much of what you'll find here, but feel free to be in touch about sources or what the best use of this, that, or the other may be.
All my kitchen gadgets -- after the jump!

Some Foods I Do Not Enjoy

Regular readers will know that there are a few foods I just don't like. There are others that I just can't eat. Some are tolerable, but not palatable to me, and other I just can't put in my mouth without it being involuntarily removed by my gag reflex. Graphic, I know. Well here is my list... Feel free to post yours! This post was inspired by a similar video post on the Washington Post website by food critic Tom Sietsema. Please note that these are not foods that I've never tried -- I have eaten them all, numerous times -- and don't like them.

Food I Absolutely Cannot Enjoy

• Cilantro
• It tastes like foul dish soap to me. There is a genetic link that isn't worth explaining, but it's absolutely inedible for me. Tasting the soapy pungency of cilantro immediately ruins my palate.
• Bell Pepper
• The flavor really permeates everything it touches. It is so unpleasant to me that when fajitas come out at Mexican places with sizzling bell peppers crossing in front of me, I get just a tad ill to my stomach.
• Mayonnaise
• This is a flavor / texture combination problem. I know many who swear by mayonnaise and I know it's offensive to most of the food world that I don't enjoy it. I can't help it, though. A schmear of mayonnaise on a sandwich excludes the possibility that I will eat it, unless it's a professional or mannerly requirement. I concede this is the least rational of my aversions, but it's among the most inflexible.
• Licorice
• Anything with a strong anise flavor puckers my mouth -- and not in a good way. Not unlike my cilanto-phobia, this flavor problem isn't voluntary or whimsical. It's actually something I can barely even get down.

Food I Don't Love -- But Can Tolerate

• Cucumber
• It's pretty flavorless to me, but something about it just doesn't appeal to me. I can deal with it in salads and sushi, but I do love pickles!
• Avocado
• This one's growing on me. Again, good in sushi, but still haven't graduated to guac. The texture is just not for me quite yet.
• Canteloupe
• This is more of a texture problem than flavor problem, but I can eat it if I must, but I'd never order it.
• Liver
• It usually tastes metallic to me, but in a decent pate, I will forgive it. Again, can do, but typically don't order on a menu.

What are some of your aversions? I know everyone has them!

Reader Question - Cooking with Citrus

Lauren from Charlotte asks...

"Summer is here! I really love the taste of citrus and would like to cook with citrus more often. What are some ways to incorporate citrus into my dinner menu?"

Citrus certainly does brighten up a summer menu. You're in luck, though. The only limit to incorporating delicious, fresh citrus into your dinner is your imagination. Whether it's oranges, lemons, grapefruits, or limes, the juice and the zest packs a huge flavor punch and partners especially well with summery foods like salads and fish. There's no need to limit your citrus flavors to dinner, by the way. A ruby red grapefruit makes a fantastic breakfast and you can't beat a mandarin orange salad for a light lunch. Citrus also has the added benefit of being very good for you. Here's a great marinade recipe to get started, and I'll share a few technique ideas at the end.

Citrus Marinated Chicken

Serves 6

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Inactive Prep Time: 8 hours / all day / overnight

Cook Time: 30-40 minutes

• 1 chicken, cut into pieces
• You can also use boneless, skinless breasts or thighs, or even just the wings for an interesting twist on party wings
• Pork tenderloin also works very well here, as does swordfish or halibut. With fish, only marinate about 30 minutes, to avoid an unpleasant "ceviche" effect
• 1 tbsp lemon zest, about 1 large lemon
• juice of the same lemon
• 1 tbsp orange zest, about 1/2 a large orange
• juice of the same orange
• 1 cup sauvignon blanc or other fruit white wine
• if you do not cook with alcohol, use 1/4 cup of white wine vinegar with 3/4 cup of water
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 4 sprigs thyme
• 2 sprigs rosemary
• 2 large, 4 medium sprigs oregano
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed but not chopped
• 2 tsp salt
• 2 tsp black pepper

Whisk together the liquid ingredients and zest with the salt and pepper. Add the herbs and garlic. Pour into a gallon-sized plastic zipper bag and add the chicken, pork, or fish. Marinate for 8 hours for chicken and pork, or 30 minutes for swordfish or halibut. Do not use a delicate fish, although this can be adapted into a sauce for a more delicate fish. In such a case, omit the wine and herbs and mince the garlic. Add a touch of mustard and whisk vigorously with the olive oil, like in our vinaigrette recipes. Season with salt and pepper and pour over the cooked fish.


Some Technique Ideas

You can always rely on a good lemon vinaigrette, as noted in our salad dressing post, and incorporate lemon and lime zest into fish and poultry dishes. Everyone knows that lemon juice goes well with fish, but the zest brings a completely different and equally magnificent layer of citrus punch. Lamb also takes lemon zest well with garlic. A lemon compound butter (lemon zest mashed with a few tablespoons of butter, salt, pepper, and parsley) goes well on chicken, fish, or steak.
Don't forget dessert! Lemon bars, orange sherbet, lime sorbet... All delicious homemade or store-bought and packed with summer freshness. I hope this helps! Enjoy.

New Feature - Reader Question of the Week

By demand of a few regular readers, I have decided to establish a weekly column that will answer a reader-submitted question. While most of my posts are somehow related to the feedback I've received from my readers, this is a particularly reader-generated feature. I have a great question this week, so please submit your question(s) to andrew@goodtastedc.com! I look forward to hearing from you and answering your most confounding culinary queries!

My 100th Post! Dedicated to my Inspirations

I think there are two kinds of people in this world, those who consider food an experience to be relished and enjoyed, and those who consider food to be fuel. You don't have to guess that I fall into the first category. Food isn't just a passion for me. It's a way of life. I live to cook, share, and eat. I have had some really interesting experiences in my life not related to food, and I still always found myself planning lunch or dinner in my head. I've briefed governors and members of Congress from a note pad scrawled with recipe ideas. I've tuned out of meetings to plan my next dinner party. My shelves have as many cookbooks as they do law school textbooks (my formal training is more legal than culinary).

As I pondered writing my 100th post on In Good Taste (formerly known as All in Good Taste), I decided to honor my inspirations. That is to say, I wanted to answer the question, "Why am I so obsessed with food?"

We all have to eat. It's not optional. Along with death and taxes, we have to nourish our bodies. I was brought up to believe, if you've got to do something, you may as well do it as well as you know how. That's how I approach the kitchen. I want to make everything special. Even a simple grilled cheese needs to be something to write home about -- not because I'm a food snob (which, in many ways, I am), but because someone I love is going to eat it. After months and years of dinner parties and take-out pizza, I've determined that I feel the way I do about food because it's an intimate experience among friends.

My friends are my inspiration. I moved to Washington, DC nearly five years ago knowing very few people and with no family close by at all. I have built a family here. I learned how to cook from my late mother in the same way I learned how to love from her. You make sure the people you love know you love them -- and there's no better way to show someone you love them than to nourish their bodies with wonderful food. There is no more generous gift than a meal that you create out of affection for your guests. You know what they like and don't like and carefully craft everything according to what you know everyone will enjoy.

Because I love my friends so much, I want to cook well. While a certain part of the art of cooking is talent, I like to think that what drives me is how wonderful my friends are. Even when I'm cooking for people with whom I am not personally close, I like to do my best because of my belief that food is an experience to be savored. It's not like filling your car up with gas -- it's a much more involved relationship. The right ingredients and the right people make every recipe no fail. Even if you burn the bread or overcook the steak, you and your friends can still enjoy each others company and have a good laugh about it.

I raise my glass to the memory of my Mother, Denise, and the many memories made with my loving friends in Charleston, Washington, and throughout the world. I love you all. I hope you're very hungry, because I look forward to making many more memories with you in the years (and posts) to come. Keep cooking!

Slow Cooker Red Beans and Rice

I really miss my Mom. She was not only an amazing cook, but provided so many wonderful memories to go along with the delicious meals of my childhood. When I was a kid, I thought food was magical. In remember spending hours at daycare pretending to make soups with juice boxes, bread with play-doh, and shaking little plastic frying pans to concoct heaven knows what. Always imitating Mom. She worked pretty long hours, but very rarely did we order takeout or stop for something on the way home. One of her favorite go-to meals was red beans and rice in the slow cooker. I have had red beans and rice quite a few times in New Orleans (Mom's hometown) and this is not really the "authentic" version of that purists will know, but it is delicious. I know you'll find it easy to make and hopefully create some special flavor memories for your friends and family.

Red Beans and Rice
Serves 4
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 2 hours on high, 4 hours on low

• 2 cans red kidney beans, drained
• 4 cups red kidney beans, soaked overnight 
• 3 cups chicken stock
• 1 large onion, sliced thickly
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 lbs Polish sausage, sliced thickly
• 1 tsp cayenne pepper (less or more to taste)
• 1/2 tsp dried thyme
• 1/4 tsp salt, to taste

Combine all ingredients in the slow cooker and cook for 2-4  hours, depending on the setting. Can also be made more quickly in a heavy Dutch oven.

For the rice... I use 2 cups of plain, white, long-grain rice to 3 1/2 cups of water in a rice cooker with 1 tsp of salt and 1 tbsp of butter. You can use the stove top technique as well in a saucepan.

Broccoli Gratin

If you're looking for an easy side dish for a dinner party, this gratin is for you. Once you've mastered the technique of a basic gratin, you can gratin anything -- broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes, eggplant, zucchini... the list goes on. It's even the same idea as my macaroni and cheese! Give it a try!

Broccoli Gratin
Serves 6-8
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes

• 3 heads broccoli, chopped into florets / small diced stems
• 2 cups cheddar cheese, grated
• 1 cup Swiss cheese, such as gruyere, grated
• 4 cups half and half
• 2 tsp garlic powder
• 1/2 stick butter (4 tbsp)
• 1/4 cup flour
• salt and pepper to taste

Pre-heat the oven to 425 degrees. Steam the broccoli with a vegetable steamer for about 10 minutes, until just softened but not mushy. Test after 5 minutes to be sure it's not cooking to quickly.
Warm the half and half in a saucepan over low heat.
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat until just foaming. Add the flour and whisk until combined. Allow to cook for a minute or so. Do not burn.
Whisk in the half and half and allow to come to  a simmer. Whisk in the grated cheeses, garlic powder, salt and pepper. Stir until smooth.
Toss with the broccoli and pour into a baking dish.
Bake at 425 degrees for 10-15 minutes until browned on top and bubbling.

Roasted Potato Salad

My neighbors and I have established a wonderful tradition of "Sunday Funday," which provides a great opportunity for us to cook and drink together and with other friends. Last week, we enjoyed two completely separate meals, both delicious, and I was reminded of this dish that I used to bring to summer barbecues. It's much along the lines of my aforementioned coleslaw, meaning it's mayonnaise free, but also brings other flavors to the table. It couldn't be easier, so I hope you'll try it for your next picnic.

Roasted Potato Salad
Serves 6-8
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30-45 minutes, plus overnight to chill

• 3-5 lbs Yukon gold potatoes or red potatoes
• 2 medium shallots, sliced
• 2 tbsp. parsley, chopped
• 1 recipe white wine vinaigrette
• 8 oz. bacon (about 8 slices), crisped and crumbled
• 1/2 cup crumbled feta
• 1 tbsp salt
• 1/2 tbsp pepper

Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the potatoes into quarters or eighths and toss with salt and pepper.
Roast on a parchment or foil-lined baking sheet for 30-45 minutes until tender. Allow to cool completely.
Toss gently with the remaining ingredients and allow to chill for a few hours to overnight.

Coleslaw

I know it's heresy for a Southern cook to admit this, but I hate mayonnaise. I don't enjoy the flavor or mouth feel. It's not as though I can't appreciate what it contributes to recipes, but I always seek a viable alternative to mayonnaise whenever possible. When it comes to pasta and potato salad, I opt for vinaigrette over gloppy mayo every time. I love this version of mayonnaise-free coleslaw and I hope you will,  too. It keeps perfectly at room temperature for hours, so you don't have to worry about it spoiling on the picnic table.

Coleslaw
Serves 10
Prep Time: 20 minutes, plus overnight
Cook Time: None

• 1/2 large head of white (green) cabbage, shredded
• 1/2 large head red cabbage, shredded
• 1/2 large red onion, thinly sliced
• 2 cups shredded carrots
• 1/2 cup sliced almonds
• 2 tbsp sugar
• 1 tbsp salt
• 1 tbsp ground black pepper
• 2/3 cup white wine vinegar

Toss all ingredients in a large bowl and allow to chill overnight.

Bananas Foster

This is an easy version of the classic New Orleans dessert. This is not something you want to make every day, as it is heavy on the butter and sugar, but certainly can impress when you set it on fire in front of your guests!

Bananas Foster
Serves 4
Prep Time: 5 min.
Cook Time: 20 min.

• 4 large, firm bananas (almost ripe, not green)
• 1/2 stick unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 1/4 cup whiskey or cognac
• pinch salt

Slice the bananas on a bias, around 2 inches thick. In a large, non-stick skillet, melt the butter over medium high heat.
Add the brown sugar, water, and pinch of salt. Allow to come to a bubble and thicken.
Add the bananas. Cook for 10-15 minutes.
Turn off the lights!
Off the heat, add the whiskey or cognac. Return to the heat and light with a large match and allow the alcohol to cook off.
Cook for a few more minutes and serve over cold vanilla ice cream.

Mango Salsa

A twist on a classic, this salsa will go over really well at parties. It's also great during casual barbecues and keeps well in the fridge for a week or so. Serve with chips as a dip or over chicken or pork as a delicious raw sauce.

Mango Salsa
Serves 12 as a dip
Prep Time: 20 min.
Cook Time: None 

• 1/2 cup diced red onion
• 2 cups chopped tomato
• 2 cups diced fresh mango
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley
• Cilantro is traditional, but I am one of those with the genetic cilantro aversion. Use what you like.
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh mint
• 1 jalapeno pepper, finely diced
• 2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp pepper
• 1/4 lemon juice
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Combine all ingredients in a glass or other non-reactive bowl. Taste for seasonings and adjust to your taste. Allow to sit for a few hours before serving.

Summer Cocktails

For those of you who know me, it's no secret that I enjoy the occasional cocktail. My favorites range from the simplest neat bourbon to complicated shaken concoctions that make your head spin. Many of my friends rightly choose seasonal favorites, such as chilled martinis during warm months and a stiff whiskey when it's cold out. I am less attached to seasonal drinks and generally let my mood dictate what I order or pour.

What I'd like to do here is offer some broad suggestions on punches and cocktails that work well for entertaining. No one needs me to tell them how to make a perfect version of whatever their favorite drink is. You know what you like for yourself, but many have asked what can work for a crowd. Here are some ideas...

Pineapple Citrus Punch

1 large can (46 oz) or carton pineapple juice

1 large carton (1/2 gallon or so) orange juice

1 bottle of champagne

3/4 liter of vodka

Blend in a large punch bowl or pitcher and serve over ice in large tumblers. These have quite a kick!

Long Island Iced Tea

1 cup gin

1 cup vodka

1 cup dark rum

1 cup whiskey

1 cup triple sec or cointreau

1 cup lemon juice

4 cups Coke, Diet Coke, or Coke Zero

Stir gently in a pitcher and serve over ice. If it's too strong, top with more Coke and garnish with lemon wedges.

Bloody Mary's for Crowd

Zing Zang is the best bloody mary mix I have ever had, but it's hard to find! Here's a suggestion for what to do if you want to control the ingredients and enjoy great brunch beverages with your friends.

1 large bottle V8 juice (roughly 2 liters)

1/2 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup red wine

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

2 tbsp Tobasco sauce

1 tbsp celery salt

1 tbsp ground black pepper

1 tbsp prepared horseradish

2 cups vodka

Stir together in a pitcher and serve over ice in a large tumbler. Garnish with celery stalks, picked okra, lemon wedges, and olives, depending on what your guests enjoy. Make sure to have plenty of extra hot sauce for those who like it super spicy! 

 Purist Mint Juleps

750 mL good bourbon, such as Maker's Mark

1 cup simple syrup (1 cup sugar dissolved in 1 cup boiling water), cooled

60 leaves, give or take, of fresh mint

lots of ice

Springs of mint for garnish

In the bottom of a pitcher, muddle the mint with some of the syrup with a large wooden spoon until all the leaves are bruised. Add the bourbon and the rest of the syrup. Stir together until combined. Serve over ice with garnish of mint sprigs. Don't add ice to the pitcher or it will weaken your juleps. If your juleps are too strong for your taste, add more syrup or cold water.

That should get you started! More to come, I'm sure. Post your favorites in the comments section so we can all enjoy!

Seafood with Linguine

Inspired by my last post, I wanted to share this decadent pasta dish with you. It is heavy on seafood, and a little expensive when it comes to ingredients, but well worth it. If you're looking to feed a crowd, here's the best bet for a delicious alternative to the weekend roast.

Seafood with Pasta and White Wine Butter Sauce
Serves 6
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes

• 1 lb shrimp, 21-30 count, peeled and de-veined
• 1 lb littleneck clams, or other small steamer variety, brushed clean
• 1 lb mussels, also brushed clean and beards pulled off
• This process means carefully pulling off the seaweed-like attachment found at the opening of some mussels, called a beard
• 1/2 lb squid (calamari), cleaned and sliced
• Make sure there is no beak in the squid, and this is a time that you could use thawed, previously frozen calamari, but not breaded
• 1 lb linguine pasta

In a large pot, bring 2 cups of water and 1 cup of white wine to a boil. Add the clams. Cook for 5 minutes. Add the mussels. Cook another 2 or 3 minutes before adding the squid. Allow to steam another 2 or 3 minutes before adding the shrimp. Cook 2 or 3 minutes more, and set aside.

For the Sauce...

• 1/2 stick unsalted butter (4 oz.)
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio
• 1 tbsp lemon zest
• 1/4 cup seafood stock (easily made from the shells of the shrimp)
• 2 tbsp shallots, minced
• 1 tbsp garlic, finely minced
• 1 tbsp parsley
• salt and pepper to taste

Melt the butter over medium heat with the olive oil and add the shallots. Cook until softened.  Add the garlic. Cook for another 2 minutes and then add the lemon zest. Cook one more minute and add the wine. Reduce by about half. Add the seafood stock. Season with salt and pepper. Turn heat to high and cook for 5 minutes. Add the parsley. Taste for seasonings, adjust to your taste, and serve tossed with the pasta and seafood prepared above.

Thoughts on Fish

With the warm weather teasing us here in Washington, I've been asking friends for ideas on spring and summer recipes. I welcome thoughts from readers, as well. One of my friends suggested that many home cooks may be intimidated by preparing fish. Since fish is well-suited to warm weather cooking because it's light and nutritious, I thought I'd share some general thoughts on the preparation of fish. I have posted a few seafood recipes before, and hope you'll consider trying some of these as you experiment with your new-found fish skills.
There are a few different categories of fish that we commonly prepare at home. There are, of course, shellfish. Shellfish are broken down into crustaceans; such as shrimp, lobsters, and crabs, and bivalves, such as clams, mussels, oysters, and scallops. I consider shellfish the easiest to prepare because they're generally forgiving (please do not construe this as endorsement of overcooking), very flavorful, and work well in lots of different kinds of cuisine. They are easy to saute, grill, steam, poach / boil, or fry. As a creature of the South, I love fried seafood. If there's demand, I'm happy to post some fried seafood recipes. I have my fair share.
Unless you're by the ocean and buying local seafood, it is likely that the seafood you're buying has been frozen. This is perfectly fine. If you're not going to use it right away, buy the frozen stuff. It will obviously keep longer and you can decide how long it thaws. Shrimp and scallops are incredibly easy to thaw in a bowl of cold water for about 30 minutes. Only buy oysters in season, usually months ending in "R." I love fried oysters, but nothing beats a raw oyster on the half shell with a few drops of mignonette sauce or lemon juice. I adore steamed mussels with white wine, garlic, shallots, and parsley... and of course a bit of butter. This is so easy to prepare it's embarrassing. Add the aforementioned to a steam pot. Cook for 5-8 minutes, until the mussels are open. You're done. Clams are great steamed or even cooked on the grill, right in their shells. I love to add everything on this list to a bowl of hot spaghetti with some olive oil and fresh parsley for a wonderful summer lunch.
It sounds hard, but is actually incredibly easy to steam fresh blue crabs with lots of delicious crab boil and Old Bay seasoning.
When it comes to fish, inexperienced cooks tend to balk a bit. Friends have called me after disasters of fish stuck to the bottoms of pans, burned on grills, overcooked, or otherwise just plain ruined. There are several techniques for avoiding problem fish. Properly cooked fish begins with the best ingredients. Only buy fish that lacks any fishy odor, is clean and appropriately firm to the touch, and lacking any dryness or discoloration. When grilling fish, the most important thing is to ensure that the surface of the grill is exceedingly hot. An under-heated cooking surface will cause fish to stick and pull apart when you try to turn it. Only cook fish for a few minutes per side. If you're very unsure about whether or not a piece of fish (especially a thick cut salmon or filet of sea bass), feel free to finish in the oven. Many professionals advocate this technique of grill / stovetop to oven, and it does produce a great result. Do not over-season fish. Many supermarkets sell marinated tilapia, catfish, and salmon in their seafood cases and I find that the acids and preservatives in the marinades tend to produce a ceviche-like product, cooking the proteins of the fish before you have a chance to apply your own flavors. I counsel that you avoid these convenience preparations, as you will only end up disappointed. A healthy sprinkling of salt and pepper over a light vegetable or olive oil is really all a piece of fish needs to stand up to high-heat pan cooking or even a grill.
Many fruits of the sea are enjoyed better raw than cooked. I love a fried oyster, but the best I have ever had are naked on the half shell. The same is often true of clams. A scallop ceviche or salmon sashimi, prepared in the right kitchen with the right product, is far more transcendent than even the most decadent fish and chips. The best advice I can give is to follow some of the recipes I have offered in the blog, some from your favorite cookbooks, and experiment. Don't be afraid of fish! All you need remember is not to overcook, over season, or overlook your seafood on the stove.
This topic is one on which I'd really value the guidance of my readers. Please, in the comments section, or to my e-mail address, bring to my attention various recipes or dishes involving seafood that you'd like to see. I will do my best to test the best variations of your requests and post the results here! Thank you for reading!

Potato Wedges

For some reason, I have accidentally omitted potatoes from my shopping lists lately. It's a shame, because I love to make herb roasted potatoes with meat or chicken. A couple of months ago, the local supermarket had some huge russet baking potatoes on sale, so I bought a couple of pounds. Baking potatoes are a little mealy for roasted potatoes, but great for potato wedges. Here's an easy recipe for wonderful baked potato wedges with a seasoning mix that helps them get delightfully crisp.

Potato Wedges
Serves 4
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 40 minutes 

• 2 large russet potatoes
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 1 tsp cayenne pepper
• 1 tsp finely ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp paprika
• 1 tsp thyme
• 1 tsp garlic powder
• 2 tsp kosher salt (plus more to taste)

Pre-heat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Cut the potatoes into wedges, about into eighths.
Toss the potatoes with the oil and spices until evenly coated.
Place in a single layer on the sheet pan, arranged neatly for easy turning.
Bake for 20 minutes. Turn each potato wedge over to brown the other side.
Bake for another 20 minutes, until brown and crisp. If the potatoes are resisting browning in your oven, as they do in mine occasionally, feel free to turn on the broiler for a few minutes. Watch them carefully!
Serve at cookouts, especially with burgers in lieu of french fries!

Easy Beef Stew

It's hot outside! It's definitely time to fire up the grill, drink iced tea, and make things that cook quickly and go well with the summer heat. This is not one of those recipes, but it comes to mind because of the few days of rain we've had here in Washington. It's going to take a few hours, but it comes out perfect and delicious every time. If you'd prefer to make it in a slow cooker, you can just throw everything together at once. I still recommend the stove top, but there is certainly virtue to convenience. This recipe, much more than most, is just a suggested framework. Adjust to your preferences and enjoy.

Easy Beef Stew
Serves 8
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 2 hours 

• 3 lbs lean stew meat, cubed (I recommend chuck or boneless short ribs)
• 2 quarts beef or chicken stock
• 12 oz frozen "vegetable soup mix," easily available in your supermarket's freezer, or your choice of chopped or diced vegetables, fresh or frozen (should include at minimum carrots, celery, and onions)
• 1 28 oz. can of crushed tomatoes
• 1 cup flour, for dredging
• salt and pepper, to taste

 Season the meat with salt and pepper and dredge until evenly coated in the flour. Brown in a large Dutch oven in small batches and set aside.
De-glaze the pot with the stock and scrape all the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Bring to a simmer and add the tomatoes and meat. Simmer, covered, for at least an hour. If you're feeling ambitious, this would be a great time to add a bouquet garni (a bundle of herbs tied in cheese cloth or kitchen twine). This is a great flavor booster, but you may not have the ingredients on hand. Add the vegetables and cook for another 30 minutes to an hour. Serve hot.
In the slow cooker variation, the browning step is omitted (and I'd recommend not flouring the beef). Just throw everything in a slow cooker and cook on low for 8 hours or so. It's not perfect, and the texture and flavor is less pronounced. It will work, though, in a pinch, and you can always augment the flavor with herbs and spices of your choosing.

Ginger Dressing

This is one of those recipes I have to post by popular demand of my friends. It's based on a salad dressing they used to serve at a great sushi place in Charleston on King Street called Sushi Hiro. I confess I haven't eaten at Sushi Hiro in years, but this particular condiment from the early 2000's is certainly a keeper.
This makes about a pint and a half of dressing, so I'd say package it in old pasta sauce jars and it should keep up to a month in the fridge. It's wonderful on salad, but also a pretty good dip for crudites or topping for fish or grilled chicken.

Ginger Dressing
Yields 14 oz +/- of dressing
Prep Time: 10 minutes

• 1 cup peeled, chopped carrot
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh onion (about 1 chopped small onion)
• 1/4 cup peeled, chopped fresh ginger
• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1 tbsp siracha chili sauce
• 2 large cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
• 2 tbsp ketchup
• 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar or white wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients except the oil in the bowl of a food processor or blender. While the mixture is being blended, drizzle in the oil until the dressing is smooth. Tiny bits of ginger and carrot will remain. This is the desired texture.
Taste for seasonings. Adjust according to your taste. I often find that, depending on the strength of the onion or sweetness of the carrots, you may want more vinegar or soy sauce).
Blend again and chill before serving.

Lots of Skewers

I posted Shrimp Skewers a couple of weeks ago, and with the acquisition of a quality charcoal grill, have tested a number of other skewers. As with most meat preparations, the grilling technique is important, but secondary in many ways to the marinade. I am generally a proponent of the "olive oil, salt, and pepper" school of thought, but it's really nice when company is over to dress it up a bit with lots of great flavors. With beef, I like to deepen  the natural "umami" flavors that are usually present in good meat, but with chicken, I like to brighten the flavors with herbs and acid, while keeping it simple. Here are some suggestions that have worked for me. Please let me know what you think!

Beef Skewers
This marinade will work for roughly 2 lbs of beef, which I recommend you cube yourself. I have tried a few different cuts and have to recommend good sirloin. The cooking time depends on your taste, the cut of beef you use, and how hot you have your coals or gas. Be careful not to overcook!

• 1/4 cup scallions, sliced
• 1/4 cup garlic, sliced
• 2 cups red wine
• 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
• salt and pepper to taste

Marinate the cubed beef for 4 hours, skewer, and grill. Use lots of coals and get them very hot! Cooking time for medium rare will be very brief.


Chicken Skewers
I use this marinade for white and dark meat chicken, about 3 lbs is perfect for this amount of marinade, but you must use all of the same cut on your skewers. Don't mix white and dark or you will have a very over-cooked breast portion or woefully under-cooked thigh portion. Again, be careful not to overcook!

•  1/2 cup white wine
• 1/4 cup dijon mustard
• 1 tbsp chopped, fresh thyme
• 1 tbsp chopped, fresh oregano
• 1/4 cup lemon juice
• 1 tbsp lemon zest
• 1 tbsp garlic powder
• 1 tbsp salt
• 1/2 tbsp cracked black pepper (more to taste)

Some general notes that I'd like to share about kebab cooking include care when choosing skewers, not overcrowding your skewers, and not concentrating too much on how they look. You can make gorgeous skewers, but if you have lots of pretty meats and veggies with different cooking times, you're bound for disappointment. Also, even if you soak your skewers, they may burn. If this happens, just go with the flow and remove the meat into couscous or a salad. Keeping an eye on them will prevent this, but your eyes can only do so much. Metal skewers never burn, but are more cumbersome to clean up. Finally, space out your meats and vegetables. If you crowd your skewers, you'll have burned outsides and raw insides because insufficient surface area will be exposed to heat. Just use common sense and enjoy this delicious summer tradition.

Comments on Bourbon Brown Sugar Glazed Salmon

Some of you may recall my recipe for Bourbon Brown Sugar Glazed Salmon, which I tested 3 or 4 times before I "got it right." Well, I made it again recently with a friend -- not quite by the book -- and it came out not quite perfect. I think I let the glaze reduce a bit too much, as once it cooled it was quite tough to drizzle. Another challenge was that my friend and sous chef saw fit to accidentally double the sugar. The flavor was a tad flawed because the sugar was white and not brown due to a shopping snafu. Anyway, one thing I noticed independent of the sauce problems, the salmon needs to be seasoned before the sauce goes on. It's also only necessary to cook the salmon for about 10 minutes in my oven -- at 450, not 400. It's also wise to put it under the broiler for 2 minutes in any case, because even at at high temperature, again my my terrible oven, browning was an issue. My first recipe worked when I tested it, but I think the adjustments suggested here will make it a better dish. Has anyone tried it? Any thoughts?

Raw Ahi Tuna Salad

If you're uncomfortable with raw fish, this probably not the recipe for you. It's similar to a basic tuna tartare, but I like it for different reasons. For one, the recipe calls for yogurt, which is creamy and tangy. I recommend serving this immediately, using very cold ingredients. This way, the acid in the yogurt doesn't toughen the fish, and you experience all the fresh flavor.

Rare Ahi Tuna Salad
Serves 2
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: None

• 8 oz sashimi quality ahi tuna, or other similar sushi quality fish, finely diced 
• 1/2 tsp prepared wasabi
• 2 tbsp Greek yogurt, such as Fage
• 2 tbsp scallions, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp lemon zest
• 1 tsp black sesame seeds
• 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• salt and black pepper to taste

Combine the ingredients for the dressing with a whisk until combined. Taste for seasoning. Toss with the fish. Serve on tortilla chips or toasted wonton wrappers. Also excellent with a peppery arugula salad dressed with lemon juice and olive oil.

Thai Style Broccoli Stir Fry with Beef

When I moved to Washington, DC I decided to learn how to cook beyond my passion (French food) and my comfort level (Southern food). It made sense to make Thai food, since I had a really good Thai place across the street and about a dozen more within a 10 block radius. After eating copious quantities of the spiciest, sweetest, and most adventurous Thai dishes, I started to work. I read tons of recipes, watched videos that I could barely understand on YouTube, and even spoke to the chefs at the restaurants that didn't seem to sketchy to ask.
So here is one of my favorite Thai dishes. It's admittedly more American than authentic, but still quite good. I hope you'll try it, and enjoy!

Broccoli Stir Fry with Beef and Oyster Sauce
Serves 4
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes

• 1 head broccoli, cut into spears / florets
• 1 lb flank steak, skirt steak, or sirloin, thinly sliced against the grain
• 1/3 cup oyster sauce
• 1 tbsp siracha chili sauce
• 1 tbsp rice vinegar
• 1 small onion, thinly sliced
• 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 cups water, divided (reserve 1/4 cup to dilute the sauce, the rest is used for steaming)
• 4-6 cups cooked Basmati rice

In a wok or large skillet, steam the broccoli over medium high to high heat in most of the water, removing the cover to allow the water to evaporate. Usually around 10 minutes.
Add the onions, and toss until onions are just softened. Around 5 minutes.
Add the vinegar and siracha sauce and toss together for about a minute, then add the garlic.
Toss together for another minute or so, and add the beef. Toss the beef together with the seasonings and allow to brown, but not cook completely.
Add the oyster sauce and stir together again until caramelized and sticky. Thin with water, stir together thoroughly, and allow to distribute the sauce evenly. Serve over rice.

Recommended - The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook

I just received a gift in the mail that I have wanted for years. I have admired The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook since it was published and honored with the 2007 James Beard Foundation Award for Cookbook of the Year. It's the cookbook of the decade, as far as I'm concerned, and is to the Southern canon of food what Mastering the Art of French Cooking is to all things French. I highly recommend you visit their catalog - http://www.boiledpeanuts.com/ - and order a copy today! My next purchase will be their new Simple Fresh Southern cookbook, available through the same catalog. To keep up with Matt and Ted Lee, visit their website here. You won't regret it. I'm in awe of these guys' talent and foresight and hope that they'll inspire you in the way they've inspired me.

Confessions of a Cook off his Game

The last few days have been hard for me in the kitchen. While my victories have been more numerous than defeats, I must confess a few shortcomings. The thing that strikes me most is that my shortcomings have come when preparing the most basic of dishes. Earlier this week, I managed to screw up roast chicken. I blame the terrible uneven cooking of my oven, but I know better. I did something wrong. After hundreds of roasted chickens, I went awry somewhere. I just don't know where. My diners didn't know, either. The breast was perfectly brown and crisp on the outside (the skin) and moist and flavorful within. The thighs, however, were barely cooked on the outside and just steamed inside. Nowhere near done evenly. I was incredibly frustrated. I carved, roasted in pieces, and just dealt with it.
My mistake tonight was less my fault, but equally frustrating. I overcooked beef. I am notorious for my rare steaks. I absolutely loathe the gray toughness of overcooked red meat. It took me years to even accept braising as a technique because it requires one to raise the temperature of perfectly decent beef higher than 130 degrees. In all seriousness, however, I used my neighbor's gas grill and allowed a deliciously and meticulously seasoned flat iron steak to find its way from perfect to unpleasant in a short 3 minutes. Everything tasted fine, but the texture was all off and I was mortified that my dear friend and neighbor had to share my shortcomings.
There are numerous complicated personal reasons that my game may not quite be 100% right now, none of which do I intend to publish here. My point is -- even those of us who are experienced in the kitchen and have above average culinary confidence sometimes make mistakes. Nobody's perfect. Just brown your thighs, apologize for your tough steak, whip up a sauce, and eat! I started this post thinking it would be a good way to "woe is me" about a few kitchen missteps, but now I realize that part of being a good cook means you don't cook everything perfectly every time. What a relief.

Caramelized Onion Dip

This is easily the best onion dip I have ever had. It has all the flavor of the store bought stuff, but really sings with fresh, quality ingredients. I love serving it with any kinds of chips or crackers alongside other dips and salsas. There are admittedly a few more steps than opening a jar here, but I promise it's worth it. Let me know what you think!

Caramelized Onion Dip
Makes 2 cups of dip
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30-40 minutes

• 1 medium onion, finely diced (about 1 cup of diced onion)
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions
• 1/2 tsp sugar
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp black pepper
• 3/4 cup Greek yogurt (such as Fage)
• 1/4 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup cream cheese (recommend neufchatel), softened
• 1 tbsp olive oil

In a large skillet, caramelize the onions. This sounds simple, but it's not quite the same as sauteed onions. Here's how to properly caramelize onions --

• Pre-heat the skillet over medium low heat.
• Add the oil and allow to come up to temperature.
• Add the onions and allow them to sizzle for a while, then toss to coat evenly with the oil.
• Season with salt.
• Turn the heat to low and allow the onions to cook for about 30 minutes, stirring and flipping occasionally to brown evenly.
• Sprinkle with the sugar.
• Allow to cook for 10 minutes more, until the onions are well-browned, but not burned. This is a careful distinction, so be careful. Pay attention these last few minutes.

Allow the onions to cool.  Blend together with a rubber spatula with the remaining ingredients. Taste for seasoning. Allow to chill before serving.

Tea Sandwiches

I'll admit that tea sandwiches sound a little high-maintenance. I personally don't love dainty food most of the time, but these tea sandwiches are wonderful to make for a crowd or a small picnic. The best part of these sandwiches is that there is no absolute recipe as to what you put in them -- I am just offering some suggestions here. You can play with breads, meats, vegetables, and condiments to your liking. Here I'll suggest a few combinations.

Breads

• Whole Wheat
• Pumpernickel
• Plain White Bread

Condiments (Spreads)

• Herb Cream Cheese (recipe follows)
• Unsalted Butter
• Herb compound butter (recipe follows)
• Lemon Vinaigrette (recipe found here)

Vegetables (Crunch)

• Arugula
• Boston Lettuce
• Thinly Sliced Radishes

Fillings

• Smoked Salmon
• Proscuitto or other quality ham
• Sliced heirloom tomato

Here's the drill --

Each of these major categories goes pretty well with any of the others, but some are better suited to one another. The idea here is to pick whatever is quality at the market and make the best ingredients sing for your guests.
For six guests, lay out 12 slices of your chosen bread on a clean counter. Spread a thin layer of your chosen condiment on each slice. Add your crunchy vegetable to half of the slices and your chosen filling to the other half of the slices.
Assemble the sandwiches, remove the crusts, and cut into triangles, rounds, or half-moons, depending on the shapes of the bread slices. Serve chilled.

Herb Compound Butter
Makes 1/4 cup of herb butter

• 1/2 stick softened, unsalted butter (4 oz.)
• 2 tsp finely chopped parsley
• 1 tsp finely chopped chives
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/4 tsp finely ground white pepper

With a hand mixer or whisk, combine all ingredients thoroughly. Use immediately as a spread or chill into desired shape for serving later. Will keep fresh for about a week.

Leftover Mashed Potato Pancakes

Even with six people around the table, it's sometimes hard to finish a whole recipe of mashed potatoes. When it's just the two of us eating, I still usually make enough to serve a small, hungry army. I have recently begun to experiment with ways to make leftover mashed potatoes more interesting. I've tried diluting them with stock and milk to make soup, which turns out fine, but not that exciting. I have mashed them together with leftover broccoli and cheese to make a nice, small casserole. Also good, but not something I'd consider "blog-worthy." The last few times I played with the leftovers, I went with simplicity -- and the result was perfection.

Mashed Potato Pancakes
Serves 2, usually, depending on how many leftovers you have
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 7 minutes

• 2-3 cups leftover mashed potatoes
• 1/2 cup flour
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 tbsp salt
• 1/2 tbsp pepper
• 2-3 tbsp chopped scallions
• 1 tbsp butter
• 1 tbsp vegetable or light olive oil

Whisk together all the ingredients except the butter and oil. Make sure everything is evenly and thoroughly incorporated.
In a large skillet, heat the oil and butter together until the butter is melted and just sizzling.
Add 1/2 cup or so of the mixture to the pan about 2 inches part, depending on the size of your skillet. You can also use an electric griddle.
Saute until golden brown and the mixture just starts to set, about 3 minutes. Flip and cook for 2 or 3 minutes more, until heated through and just set. They should resemble normal pancakes.
Serve hot.

Grilled Shrimp Skewers

Why has it become so common for home cooks (and even some restaurants) to put 5 or 10 different items, all with different cooking times, on one skewer? I always prefer to put one item on each skewer and everyone can select skewers of the items they want, and nothing is horribly over- or under-cooked. There are tons of different skewer-friendly foods that I will post throughout the summer, but here's what I like to do with shrimp.

Grilled Shrimp Skewers
Serves 4
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 5 minutes

• 2 lbs shrimp, 15-20 count, peeled and de-veined
• 1/4 cup lemon juice
• 2 tbsp lemon zest
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tbsp chopped parsley
• 1 tbsp kosher salt
• 1/2 tbsp black pepper
• 1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 tsp garlic paste
• finely chopped garlic that has been mashed with the edge of a knife or with a mortar and pestle
• 1 tsp dill, finely chopped

Soak 15-20 bamboo skewers in water to avoid burning on the grill. Combine all ingredients, except the shrimp, in a mixing bowl. Toss with the shrimp and allow to sit for 10 minutes.
Pre-heat a gas or charcoal grill (or a grill pan or oven's broiler)
Skewer 3-5 shrimp on each stick.
Grill over high heat for 2 minutes or so, just until the shrimp are opaque. Serve warm over salad greens such as arugula with just an extra splash of lemon juice and drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Cherry Tomato Salad with Red Onions & Parsley

As you may have guessed from my previous post, I love tomatoes. They're not usually ready until the middle of June or the beginning of July, though, so it's always challenging (and often disgusting) to make food with tomatoes in the cooler months. The solution is sometimes canned tomatoes, such as in sauces. It's sometimes sun dried  tomatoes, such as in salads. When you just need fresh tomatoes, however, the solution is generally cherry tomatoes, grape tomatoes, or teardrop tomatoes. The smaller varieties have much more concentrated flavor, come from reliable sources in large quantities, and are always delicious.
It's become more and more common at grocery stores and farmers' markets to carry heirloom varieties of smaller tomatoes. I cannot recommend more highly that you try these unique little treasures. You can find purple, striped, green, yellow, orange... any color and flavor of tomato you can imagine. Try this recipe with the standards you'll find in the grocery --  but it's really designed to stand out with the special tomatoes that you only find when you really look.

Tomato Salad
Serves 6
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: None

• 2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, or small heirloom tomatoes (about 2 lbs)*
• 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
• 2 tbsp chopped parsley
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (this is the place for your best stuff)
• 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar (see above)
• salt and pepper to taste

Carefully slice each tomato in half. Toss with the onion, parsley, oil, and vinegar. Taste for seasonings.
Add salt and pepper to your desired taste. Serve at room temperature.

*Never refrigerate tomatoes. It changes the texture and flavor more than you will realize. I know lots of people say it helps them keep longer, but this is not really true. They may look fine on the outside, but they're mushier inside even after a few hours in the fridge and will never taste the same again.

Fried Green Tomatoes

This decadent Southern treat is so associated with the canon of soul food that they even named a book and major motion picture after it. In all seriousness, nothing says gracious Southern hospitality quite like a hot plate of fried green tomatoes. I love that despite the fact that they're breaded and fried, they taste fresh and light. I can't imagine a summer without slicing those tart green tomatoes and frying them up for my friends. 

Fried Green Tomatoes
Serves 6
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes

• 6-8 green tomatoes (not unripe regular tomatoes, use green tomatoes. You can find them at Whole Foods or specialty food stores, or any farmer's market.)
• 2 cups all purpose flour
• 2 cups plain dry bread crumbs
• 3 eggs, beaten with 3 tbsp of buttermilk
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil, more if needed
• 1 tbsp salt
• 1/2 tbsp black pepper
• additional salt and pepper to taste, after frying

Using a small paring knife, remove the dry stem piece from the tomatoes. Slice about 1/8-1/4 of an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper. Dredge in the flour, then the beaten egg and buttermilk, then in the breadcrumbs.
Pre-heat the oil in a cast iron skillet or other heavy-bottom frying pan over medium high heat. When the oil just begins to shimmer, fry the tomatoes for 3 minutes per side, being careful not to burn. Turn when golden brown. You'll have to do them in batches to make sure that each tomato you serve is perfectly hot. No one will mind, I promise. Drain on paper towels or a cooling rack. Season with additional salt and pepper while still hot. Serve immediately.

Dutch Oven Pork "Barbecue"

I know the purists among my readers will scoff at the idea that slow-roasted pork shoulder in an oven could be called "barbecue." I'll confess, it's not. It's a close approximation, though, for those of us urban dwellers who may not have access to smokers and pits. Besides, you have a lot more control over an oven than you do over open coals. I assert there are some practical advantages to oven barbecue, even if the smoky flavor is absent.
I always recommend using a pork shoulder, also known as Boston butt, with the fat on and bone in. The rub is also very important. I will include a rub recipe here, but it's up to you what flavors are familiar and pleasant. It's perfectly acceptable to use a name-brand store-bought rub, or one of the many artisan seasoning blends available from local farmers' markets, specialty food stores, and road-side stands. I'll go over this again in the instructions, but the important thing is that you season liberally. You can only expect the flavor of oven barbecue to be as intense as you make it. If your pork is bland, you have no one to blame but yourself.

Oven Pork Barbecue
Serves 12
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 5 hours

• 1 pork shoulder, 6-7 lbs
• 1/2 cup rub
• 3 tbsp salt
• 2 tbsp black pepper
• 1 tbsp hot paprika
• 1 tbsp dried thyme
• 1 tbsp dried oregano
• 1 tbsp garlic powder
• 1 tbsp onion powder
• 1 tsp chipotle chili powder (for extra heat, optional)
• 1 tsp cayenne pepper
• 4 cups chicken or beef stock
• 1 onion, halved
• 6 cloves garlic, bruised
• 4 stalks celery, broken
• 8 sprigs parsley
• sauce, if desired

Pre-heat an oven to 325 degrees. Season the pork shoulder liberally. Sear on the stove top in your braising pan (a large dutch oven or stockpot). Toss in the vegetables. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Cover tightly and roast for 5 hours. Check occasionally to ensure the stock hasn't evaporated. If it does, just add water to the bottom of the pan. Do not pour over the meat. It will wash away the seasoning.
After the meat is done, allow to cool slightly. Trim the fat and shred the meat into pulled pork for sandwiches or plates. Serve with any number of sides, recipes for which will be coming all summer long!

Lemonade

In the days of Crystal Light and Country Time, it's sometimes hard to believe that some people grew up actually drinking lemonade, rather than "low calorie powdered drink mix." I would be lying if I said I don't like the convenience of some of the packaged mixes, but nothing refreshes like the real stuff. Besides, lemonade is easy!

Lemonade

Makes 1 gallon

• 2 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice
• the stuff from the cute yellow bottle is not a substitute
• 1 cup simple syrup
• 1 cup sugar dissolved in 1 cup boiling water, cooled
• 1 gallon ice water

Combine all the ingredients in a large pitcher, serve over ice with sprigs of mint and sliced, fresh lemons. 

Southern Sweet Tea

Because it hit 90 today on my back porch, I think it's only appropriate to share a simple recipe for Southern style sweet tea, the table wine of the South. Here's what I like to do, and it works every time.

Sweet Tea

• 2 large ("family size") tea bags
• 1/2 gallon (2 quarts) boiling water
• 2/3 cup sugar or Splenda (how much and what brand depends on taste)
• 1/2 gallon cold water
• 6 cups ice cubes

Take the boiling water off the heat. Steep the tea bags in the hot water for 15 minutes, until tea is desired strength.

Remove the tea bags and stir in the sugar until dissolved.

Pour into a large, at least 1-gallon, pitcher. Add the cold water and ice cubes. Serve ice cold with lemon.

Corn 3 Ways

Corn is absolutely one of my favorite vegetables. Whether it's driving through rural South Carolina or my frequent trips through Maryland on my way to the beach in Delaware, the stalks of corn seem to frame my summer. Even in the winter months, canned and frozen corn are always around so I don't miss that crisp sweetness any time of year.
Here are three distinct techniques for preparing corn, ranging from simple to more involved. You may recall my corn salad recipe from a few months ago. I have all the ingredients ready in my kitchen now, but it's fun to change it up a bit.

Steamed Corn
Serves as many as ears of corn you prepare
Prep Time: None
Cook Time: 15 minutes

• Whole ears of fresh corn, husk on
• Water
• Salt
• Butter 

Bring a large pot, filled 3 inches with water, fitted with a vegetable steamer, to a boil. If you don't have a vegetable steamer, don't worry about it. Add the corn and cover. Steam for 10-15 minutes. Remove carefully (with tongs) and serve immediately.
Each diner can remove the husks and silk at their place and season and butter their corn according to their own preference.
Is this too simple? Boring? Ok. Well try this...


Grilled Corn with Bacon
Serves 4
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes

• 4 ears corn, husks and silks removed
• 1/4 cup crumbled, cooked bacon, divided
• 4 tbsp butter, divided
• 2 tbsp chopped chives
• 2 tbsp chopped parsley
• 1 tbsp hot Hungarian paprika
• salt and pepper to taste

Pre-heat a grill on high.
Tear 4 roughly 1 ft squares of aluminum foil. In the center of each, place an ear of corn.
Top with 1 tbsp of butter, a sprinkle of chives, parsley, paprika, salt, and pepper. Crumble about a tbsp of bacon over each.
Close the foil tightly.
Grill, butter side up, for 10 minutes. Turn. Cook another 5 minutes.
Remove from heat and serve in the foil on plates, so the butter doesn't burn the diner.


Do you find the cobs daunting? Here we go...


Sauteed Fresh Corn
Serves 4
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes

• 4 ears corn, off the cob
• 1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 tbsp butter
• 1 tbsp lemon zest
• 2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped
• 4 scallions, thinly sliced 
• salt and pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add the pepper flakes and lemon zest and cook for about a minute. Add the corn and stir until combined. Cook for another 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Toss in the scallions and parsley and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Serve immediately.

Simple Grilled Steak

I know I recently posted a suggestion for grilled skirt steak, but I know a lot of folks are just cooking for one or two. If you're not prepared to put 2 lbs of meat on the grill, or maybe don't have hours to marinate and tenderize, do not be discouraged. All you need to prepare delicious grilled steak is quality meat, a hot grill, and salt and pepper. Again, almost to simple to call it a recipe, but here goes. I'll describe the recipe for two, but you can obviously make as much as you need.

Steak on the Grill
Serves 2
Prep Time: 2 minutes
Cook Time: 6-10 minutes

• 2 steaks, about 1 1/2 inches thick, I recommend ribeye, but sirloin is great if you're on a tight budget
•  1 tbsp salt
• 1/2 tbsp pepper
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil

Allow the steaks to come up to room temperature. Grilling steaks right out of the fridge will result in uneven done-ness. Pre-heat a gas or charcoal grill over high heat. Rub the steaks with the vegetable oil. Season liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. Grill 3-4 minutes per side. I recommend medium rare, so 3 minutes per side should do it. Remove from the grill and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes under aluminum foil before serving.


You could use any seasoning blend you prefer. I chose simplicity with salt and pepper, but there are so many possibilities. Follow the basic instructions above to avoid overcooking or other common grilling mistakes.